Medium colour – and quite a remarkable colour at that – you might think it cam from a 2001 or 2002, not a 20 year wine. The fruit aromas have sweetness, concentration and a bloody depth. A texture that just about avoids fatness but delivers in its stead a velvet impression from fading tannins – were they a bit astringent in their youth? – I expect so. Very well balanced, though it is a wine whose whole personality is about up-front impact, the finish being medium at best despite the quality of what went before, and showing some nice dried cranberry/currant. Yet for a 20 year-old villages wine I revert to my earlier adjective – remarkable. Can you expect more form such a cuvée at this age? – I’ll decide after I’ve opened the ’85…
1990
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1990 Coche-Dury Meursault Rougeots
The first note on the nose is oak toast, but it’s a little more background than the 1989. There’s faint gunflint and at first – fruit – it’s understated, but it’s here. Much longer, interesting and complex than the 1989. There’s an exciting burst on the mid-palate and (disappointingly) still some oak texture to resolve on the finish. I have to say though, that this is very seductive wine.