Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose is higher-toned than the Chambolle and has many dimensions – very impressive. Ripe but fresh fruit and super balance. Lovely.

Champs-Perdrix sits at the very top of Vosne but despite being a ‘villages’ wine, touches on the 1er crus of Les Gaudichots, Aux Reignots and Petits-Monts plus the very top of La Tâche. Medium-plus bright and young cherry-red colour. The nose starts with an undertow of dark, sweet and slightly toasty oak – this fades in the glass – soft, black-shaded fruit comes more to the fore. Lithe, concentrated, good acidity and very good mid-palate concentration. Despite plenty of well-grained, slightly astringent, tannin there’s a little oak induced texture that today I’d class as a negative. The finish is faint but lingering. Overall, it’s an impressive bottle, but I’d say it needs 3-4 years.