Leroy

2003 Leroy Pommard Les Vignots

By on November 30, 2006 #asides

Deep cherry-red – only slighty paler than the 03 Dugat-Py. The nose is rounder and more forward than the D-P, just a little reduced at the start but there’s lots of disparate complexity. Somehow the palate is also less ‘together’ than the D-P; it’s fresher, got more tannin and lots of coffee-bean in the mouth – significantly more apparent complexity but like the nose, little apparent cohesion. Longer than the D-P; if all the parts come together this could be a very, very good wine.

2000 Leroy Pommard Trois Follots

By on November 30, 2006 #asides

Medium, medium-plus ruby-red. That characteristic Leroy nose (how do they do that?) of well integrated oak set against wild red fruit, almost confiture and rose petals. The fruit is red-coloured and like the other 2000’s quite tannin-forward. It’s as long as the JM Boillot Jarollières 1er cru, riper but less complex. You are left with a smooth coating on your teeth as a reminder.
It’s not really possible to criticise such an accomplished villages wine – really excellent.

2004 Leroy Vosne-Romanée

By on September 30, 2006 #asides

Medium colour. A smokey and wide though less intense nose than the Bourgogne; it does deepen with time and shows real (if understated) complexity. Versus the Bourgogne there is a perceptible extra density and length, the acidity is more fully covered. There is just a hint of bitterness though no astringency to the tannin. Long, long, long. It is a seriously interesting and complex wine but I find it hard to reconcile that it should contain Richebourg and Romanée St.Vivant – at least Leroy’s! There is some value here I think, though like the Bourgogne, it is the aromatics that excel today.

2003 Leroy Chambolle-Musigny Les Fremières

By on September 30, 2006 #asides

Deep colour. The nose starts rather closed and meaty, only widening a little over its alloted time in the glass though the nose did eventually become a little more fruit-driven. Versus the Narbantons, this seems to have a better balance and seems less obviously extracted, though the first impression is of a shorter finish. The oak is a little less dominant and slowly the finish seems to open out and become a little creamy. This wine is quite a bit more expensive than de Vogüés young vines Musigny – (i.e. the Chambolle premier cru) and Mugnier and Drouhin’s Musignys – I know where my cash would be.

2003 Leroy Nuits St.Georges

By on September 30, 2006 #asides

Deep cherry-red. The nose is dense, tight and toasty, only slowly opening but in doing so hints at the same intense floral note of the 04 Bourgogne. Lots of action on the palate, perhaps caused by the petillance. The tannins are much more noticeable though not astringent. This is a very nice wine but it’s hard to see the value.

1993 Leroy Pommard Les Vignots

By on October 31, 2003 #asides

Medium-plus cherry red – if I hadn’t seen the label from the colour I would have guessed this was a 1999. The nose was very individual, starting deep, perhaps a little oaky and definitely quite gamey and mushroomy. It took close to two hours (by which time there was very little left) for a red fruit compote nose to develop, further development gave redcurrant. The palate has excellent acidity and very smooth tannin to match. For the first 1 hour+ I was a little concerned whether there was enough density of fruit for the long-term. When we started on the beef course (with a little risotto) the fat improved and the wine took on the appearance of more concentration. Only medium plus length and showing in a very young and very atypical way. Very good food wine and very interesting, but I probably wouldn’t be looking to stock my cellar with this wine.

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