Medium-plus colour. The nose starts a little, inky and earthy with plenty of background reduction – the reduction is a minor flavour component too – it neads to aerate a little, so I decant. An hour later and there’s a higher-toned red fruit note, faint alcohol too but the reduction is gone. The last drops have a lovely redcurrant lift. Decent impact, perhaps a little monolithic like some other Fourrier 04s, but the lingering flavours and the overall balance are very good. I don’t discern any vintage character, but I have the impression I’d probably rather drink a majority now than leave them all in the cellar.

Vines from 1928. Medium, medium-plus colour. Wide and high-toned with quite floral, complex notes. Well-covered structure, remaining understated until it reaches the mid-palate and on into the finish where there is plenty of fine and complex fruit.

Medium ruby-red. A nose that starts deep and surprisingly oaky given that there’s normally a maximum of 20% in this cellar – but it’s short-lived before fading into redder, layered fruit overlaid by higher toned alcoholic aspects, maybe even an edge of coffee. In the mouth it starts impressively; it’s well balanced, and shows a lovely, succulent, creamy red fruit. Time increases the depth but eventually dulls the excitement just a hint. It’s intense in the mid-palate and you never really think of the tannin before it slowly fades in the finish – still with that creamy edge. Poised, elegant and a first-class villages.

Only medium cherry-red colour. The nose is full of toffee and caramel toppings to the red fruit – surprising considering the modest amount of oak that Jean-Marie uses. Medium bodied, quite elegant palate. Nice acidity and subdued tannin a tasty and quite lacy wine. A little remaining wine stored overnight sadly fell apart – perhaps not a long-term wine then but very lovely on day one.