Dugat-Py Bernard

2002 Dugat-Py Bernard Gevrey-Chambertin Coeur de Roy

By on October 31, 2007 #asides

Medium-plus cherry-red colour. On opening, the nose was actually rather engaging – like the Fourrier only denser. After about 40 minutes it’s deeper-still, rather savoury and ungainly – which is a shame – fortunately after 90 minutes it freshens up a little to give a relatively diffuse black-shade fruit which is not great but is certainly better – the last drops in the glass give cause for optimism though. The palate has a smooth, understated entry, in fact it’s silky smooth, linear and with darker-shaded fruit. The finish is understated, and the length is the equal of the 99 Fourrier that follows.

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2004 Dugat-Py Bernard Pommard Le Levrière

By on November 30, 2006 #asides

Deep cherry-red. The nose starts quite reduced with sulfur and hints of mushroom – hard to get at the fruit – slowly it warms to give a bright, high-toned beacon of pure red fruit. The palate has a perfectly (oak) upholstered texture, really impressive concentration, good acidity and surprisingly only a mild grain to the tannin. This is quite mineral and shows a long finish, akin to having (I’m assuming!) a piece of coal in your mouth. From the mid-palate onwards this is much more impressive than the Coche. Very impressive.

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2003 Dugat-Py Bernard Pommard Le Levrière

By on November 30, 2006 #asides

Deep cherry-red. High tones over a dense fruit core; initially a little diffuse this tightens and gives a chocolate edge. Very, very impressive concentration with just about enough acidity to carry it and its sandy textured tannins into the finish – those tannins are well-covered by the extract. Medium-plus length, this is very-well crafted – it is immaculately dressed though today it’s hard to communicate with. A very impressive if one-dimensional wine today.

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2004 Dugat-Py Bernard Vosne-Romanée Vieilles Vignes

By on September 30, 2006 #asides

Despite 75% whole bunch fermentation this is a deep cherry-red colour. The nose shouts aggressively of funk, reduction, sulfur and oak – nothing else – two hours are insufficient to make an iota of difference. If you leave the bottle (sans cork) upright in a ‘eurocave’ for 36 hours you will end up with something that actually smells of wine; dense but pure red fruit – I get the impression that you might need a week to see any oxidation! But why leave in a eurocave for 36 hours? Easy, what the funk might hide on the nose is there for all to see on the palate – cork taint. Now that’s a big shame (at least it wasn’t his Chambertin!) because there is concentration and a really exectutive texture – the tannins are so fine despite what I assume to be significant extraction. Ignoring the taint, this is mightily impressive wine though if you want to drink now I suggest early preparation – 8 hours in a decanter with lots of air would be my starting point or, better still, opening the night before and leaving the open bottle to overnight in the fridge.

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2002 Dugat-Py Bernard Gevrey-Chambertin Les Evocelles

By on October 31, 2005 #asides

Deep cherry-red. The nose shows a really intense redcurrant and cranberry note – very impressive – as I was expecting an attack of oak. The palate has structure, but the tannins are completely covered by the high-quality fruit. The level of extract is higher than some grand crus, what is missing in such a comparison is the complexity. For all that, this is a splendidly dense – but balanced – village wine, I’d be really interested to revisit this in 10 years to see what awaits. It’s only a shame that it costs more than many grand crus!

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1997 Dugat-Py Bernard Gevrey-Chambertin Les Evocelles

By on January 31, 2003 #asides

Nose is mainly toasty oak – not much else. Good acidity and relatively fine, mouth-coating tannins, but where is the fruit? Considering that 1997 is generally a very ripe vintage I amazed that I could only find the ‘wood’. To my palate very disappointing.

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