Deep colour with a purple rim. The nose settles to bright red cherry with an edge of red berry fruit over a deeper, bubbling base. The fruit on the palate easily cuts through a swathe of tannin. There’s good concentration and it’s very enjoyable. It still comes over as cool and burgundian rather than hot and bothered. Frankly I expect it’s a wine for the short to medium term as the tannin could dominate if the fruit recedes. It’s been a bit of a crowd pleaser for guests at home this summer – particularly those shiraz lovers…

No VV label on the 2002 – what a difference a year makes. Deep crimson (blue-shade red actually). The nose at room temperature is quite diffuse but faint spice and deep, sweet black fruit lay in wait. Cool the wine to 15°C and it’s altogether tighter and in some ways (if you wait long enough) reminds me of 1993. Dense, indeed intense, mouth-watering acidity (Burghound notes no acidification in 03) and tannins that are very well covered by the extract. Very 2003 but it’s big fun too. As well-made as any in 2003 and very good value (~17€), I’ll have to try and visit this year.