Good colour. The nose starts in a good way and just keeps getting better; adding dimensions of violet flowers and eventually a raspberry and recurrent impression. Energy and acidity in fine balance with a melange of red fruits. Good in the finish too – this is very lovely right now.

Medium, medium-plus colour. There’s a depth of really super dark red and black fruit – quite glossy and initially very primary – given time there’s a floral dimension, rather heavy but not to worry, it’s young. Wow; swirl this around in your mouth and there’s a hint of silk but more importantly there’s an intensity that soon rebels – you have to swallow. Okay the acidity is reasonably bright, but the intensity is really about flavour and the depth of that flavour is enough to balance. An impression of tannin remains and a little bitter edge to the long flavour too – eventually the mid-palate takes on an extra dimension of higher-toned, pretty fruit. This really will become one of those sweet and delectable mature wines. Very impressive – you might think was only four or five years of age – not 12; unfortunately that means you should still wait another 4 or 5 years! Super.

Medium colour. The nose is dominated by that cedar-green note, it does slowly recede over 2 hours, revealing more of the ripe red strawberry fruit below. In the mouth it’s ripe and sweet, full of red fruits, a nice texture and a good burst of concentration on the mid-palate – but it’s also here that you can taste the green element. It’s soft, sweet and nicely concentrated, but with this level of green I can’t recommend it…

Medium, medium-plus cherry-red. The nose shows a transient deep and toasty oak nose – then it’s gone. At 20° the nose is diffuse and flabby but at 17° there is some tightening, black cherry and just an edge of reduction. The palate starts just a little rough, but I think this is just a little dissolved carbon dioxide as there is quite some improvement, eventually it’s lovely. Following the Voillot, this is more masculine with darker shaded fruit and perhaps more density, but certainly missing a little of the magic complexity of that wine. Lots of dimension and a very impressive finish. It needs a little time in the glass, but this is a top-class villages.

A soft and spongy cork. The colour is a medium-plus ruby red showing just a faint amber edge. The first note is a hard sulfur note and it takes quite some time to lift, slowly a quite striking violet note over soft red cherry comes through – quite a compelling impression. The palate starts quite short, but lengthens in tandem with the improvement in the nose. The tannin is still quite astringent and the overall impression is still a little harsh. The acidity is good and the nose eventually shines but this wine remains the Curate’s egg. If you want to drink now, decant or open a couple of hours before pouring.

Medium, medium-plus ruby-red colour. The nose is very high toned, just a little metallic and is faintly red in tone – over 90 minutes there is little more showing. A little sweetness, rather linear and some intensity too. The acidity is mouth-watering and the length almost good. Linear and giving little today – but many villages and 1er cru wines from 1999 are showing in quite a similar way right now. Seems an okay wine but one that’s best left in the cellar for at least a couple more years. Day two this has much more depth and interest – confirming that it’s time to leave in the cellar.

At last, a good bottle from this case, the first was all bottle-stink and the second had sulfur which had fixed in the wine. Medium-plus ruby-red. Very interesting nose, deep and meaty, a hint of gun-flint and occasional flashes of piercingly lovely red berry fruits. Great texture, there’s still some tannin, but it’s very fine. Like most 96’s there is an obviously fresh complexion from the acidity but there’s enough red-berry fruit to balance it out – it will, however, always remain acid-forward, though the balance will see it live for many years to come – certainly no rush over the next 10! Very enjoyable.

Short note, two days after drinking. Medium cherry-red. Soaring if rather tight nose, very elegant with high, fresh tones. The palate is also a little tight, but, like the nose, very elegant. The acidity carries it through the mid-palate into a good finish. Good concentration and has the balance to last very well.

I remember my first bottle from this case, on release there was overwhelming sulfur on the nose, I took it back to the merchant as it was completely undrinkable – even 4 hours after opening – this was where I learned about bottle stink, but they still replaced the bottle! This second bottle didn’t start much better, perhaps worse, the sulfur has slowly evolved to hydrosulfite – that means very smelly cabbage. The palate manages to show just a little creamy length, but for me the dominating factor is the sulfur infused edge. Even on day two and despite the nose clearing up a little the palate was the same – perhaps worse as there was even a hint of oxidation. I’ll give this case one more chance this time next year – if it fails I’ll be looking for the merchant to take them back – potentially good wine spoiled by too much sulfur.