A blend of several parcels, though the youngest vines (very young for this domaine) are still older than 30 years. Deeper coloured. Dark fruit. Lots of impact, concentration and structure here – wow – it betters many a villages Gevrey.

Medium-pale ruby colour. The nose is not so fantastic – deeper notes that hint more of oak than fruit and higher-toned estery, indeed ketone influences. Drain the glass and the last vestiges of wine that cling to the glass smell gorgeous – shame you have to wait for it! The wine shows a very tart aspect – a hint of the unripe – an extra dimension on the mid-palate, though more creamy-oak than fruit-driven. Grainy, faintly astringent tannin. A curate’s egg. Given a choice between the currently uninteresting Barthod and this, I’d still go for the Barthod!