A little deeper, medium ruby-red versus the Leroy, with a nose that is denser but at the same time less pretty – darker fruit that today is less successfully delineated. In the mouth there is also a little more density and certainly an extra dimension of flavour in the mid-palate. There is more ‘material’ in the glass and more secondary development than the Leroy, this wine had a significant advantage in purchase price too – it’s a really good regional wine – yet I would certainly go for the Leroy in preference today.
Barthod Ghislaine
2001 Barthod Ghislaine Bourgogne
Medium colour. A soft red fruit nose with a faint cedar top note, slowly develops more density to the red core and eventually a little redcurrant. Well textured with plenty of forward fruit and again a faint edge of cedar – but at this level it’s additive – I do though find the overall profile slightly jammy. A simple but balanced and quite tasty luncheon bourgogne that never quite gets the pulse increasing.
2002 Barthod Ghislaine Bourgogne
Just a little darker in colour. The nose goes darker and deeper; a hint riper and no cedar but clearly a few diffuse alcoholic overtones. In the mouth it’s fuller with an edge more tannin and acidity that is slightly tart – it’s not a problem, just it’s personality. On the back of the acidity is a little burst of intensity on the mid-palate before fading into the finish. Less smooth than the 2001 but more material. I look forward to making another comparison in a few years.
2005 Barthod Ghislaine Bourgogne Rouge
Medium, medium-plus cherry-red. Slightly volatile and high-toned, but these notes mainly disappear with swirling to leave a deeper, cream-edged base – it’s then quite impressive. Fresh in the mouth, dense and slightly furry with very good fruit that follows through into the finish. Very impressive – average 2004 villages quality here – but I’d still mainly drink over the next 2-3 years.
1999 Barthod Ghislaine Bourgogne Rouge
Medium, medium-plus cherry red – holding its colour very well. The nose is a little tight; mainly glossy red cherry, but not very expressive. The palate is reserved yet quite sophisticated. Good acidity, some fat, a little grain to the tannin and very good concentration in the mid-palate. A wine that is currently hiding much of its wares but is clearly a very ‘above average’ bourgogne.