A depth of aromas, slightly musky with hints of creme brulee. This is rather unctuous for an 07, lots of depth but very understated acidity – again lots of complexity, plenty of creamy vanilla from the barrels. The flavour grows in the mid-palate, before a long diminuendo in the finish – and there really is a lot of complexity – only here do you find the characteristic minerality of this vineyard. There is no overt toast shown by this concentrated and impressive wine, but all the same, I’d have preferred a little less barrel flavour in this relative youth.

In bottle for about 1 month. This is wide and concentrated – actually the concentration sneaks up on you – there is much more here than I first thought. Not quite the focus of the 2008, but that could be the recent bottling. There is good balance, though after the acidity of the 08s I’m left wanting more.

Lovely aromas that show lots of complexity. The entry is about balanced richness before widening across the palate with mineral flavour and hints of barrel vanilla. Very moreish wine…

Medium-pale lemon yellow colour. Width, and after their Combettes a more obvious higher-toast oak depth, with cream-edged pear fruit. The palate is more lithe and linear with better acidity. Good dimension in the mid-palate and the oak is less jarring and textured, super length here. This also needs 3 or 4 years for the oak to lessen, and the higher toast is not my beau, but there’s real quality here. Already after 2 hours open the high toast is transformed. Not as obviously dense as the Combettes but finer balance.