Intense, waxy nose. This is fleshy wine – well textured – that grows and grows in intensity before the flavour slowly fades. From a flavour perspective it’s clearly a little tight (it slowly puts on weight in the glass) but, it’s love in a bottle!
Golden. No hint of oxidation on the nose; there is some impact but it’s a little foursquare, hints of lanolin escaping from the glass. In the mouth – now we’re talking – good acidity and a lithe impression of restrained power. Decent length too. Belying its 33 years – this is lovely old white burgundy.
Once more there’s an extra hint of ripeness to the fruit, set against a lovely width of aromas. Again quite mineral. There is a modest attempt to cover the structure with some richness but the tasty frame of acidity remains clear. I often think of power when tasting Pucelles, but here is finesse – super.
A much deeper colour than the 93 bourgogne. The colour made me rush to smell – but no problems with oxidation here, only caramelised butter and hints of citrus for freshness – it was actually very nice. In the mouth it definitely needed time to unwind and I’m sure it never fully did, but the texture and impression is of density coupled to long, lingering flavours. Not much complexity today or even excitement come to that, despite all, it still made a strong impression around our table.
The nose here is gorgeous – a little understated maybe – high-toned fruit wrapped in a soft coating, but lovely. In the mouth finally we have a wine with the correct balance of concentration and acidity – it’s really excellent. Head and shoulders above the previous wines though still a laughable 169 swiss francs.
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