Similar depth of colour to the 2001, but the shade is more cherry-red. A deep nose again, this time a little more coffee-infused with a hint of blood-orange – more things to find, but less focused. Very different style on the palate – the length of finish is comparable, but it’s no crescendo, this wine starts as it ends – full-speed – starting much wider than the 2001. The finish is long but currently a little saccharin. There’s just a little more material – but not necessarily better material. Today I’d much rather drink the 01 (it’s that saccharin thing, I also don’t like Cola-Lite), longer-term my cellar is keeping an open mind despite retaining an emphasis on 2001…

Medium colour, that halfway-house between cherry and ruby. Deep and intense with a mineral, slightly spicy edge, the fruit is rather linear and red but still with real depth. Soft entry, but this wine has a bit of a peacocks tail, it just gets wider and wider with a lovely finish. It’s only medium density but has a lovely back-bone of acidity and you hardly notice the tannin.