Medium lemon-yellow. Wide, inviting, clean citrus fruit and flower notes. After the M&M 06 Puligny, this is much more mineral and lithe – as much the vintage as the vines. Lovely acidity is smoothly rendered and underpinning the intensity and leaving a mouth-watering finish. Excellent
2007
2007 Dublère Beaune Blanche Fleurs
2007 Marchand Pascal Morey St.Denis Clos des Ormes
Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose is quite interesting; clearly a few stems that are partially obscuring violet flowers but the stems are far from gothic plus, if you swirl, you get a great punch of floral aromas. In the mouth there’s decent weight that despite being a little light on acidity never seems overly heavy. There is sweetness from the fruit, a little more than a suggestion of minerality in the mid-palate and eventually a mouth-watering finish. This is very moreish wine, it shows the vintage more than the village today, but it is very tasty indeed – and that’s before you look at the great price ex domaine.
2007 Le Moine Lucien Beaune Avaux
The nose starts as pure oak but needs only a handful of minutes to start coming together in the glass, leaving a prominent but quite nice spicy dimension to the red fruit that has now come into frame. Here is an excellent depth of fruit flavour and a very nice intensity too. Clearly there is the carpenter’s hand here, but this is a wine that works very well indeed. The final twist of tannin gives a bitter-chocolate tang to the finish. Very tasty.
2007 Croix (des) Beaune Les Grèves
The nose shows depth, width and complexity – of fruit – a totally different animal to the previous wine, eventually also delivering a floral aroma too. Silken entry, this is round and concentrated, and like the Le Moine also delivers a bitter-chocolate tannin in the finish – the first obvious oak artefact. Very lovely wine – you would be hard pressed to guess the vintage.
2007 Eugénie Vosne-Romanée Aux Brûlées
Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose is deep and padded with a hint of musk, fine spice and a creamy crust to the dark fruit aromas. Soft entry, but it’s a little glycerol cushioning that provides the softness, not a lack of structure or flabby fruit; here is a beautifully delineated wine – for a 2007 – clarity of flavour and clean-lines from the understated cool acidity, and even a good base of minerality. There’s a late arriving bitter twist to the serious fruit and finally just a little fine tannic texture. It would be easy to knock ‘Château Eugénie’, and this is certainly very, very polished wine but here is also a wine of class and distinction – the combination of those two words is a rarity in 2007 – not the absolute energy of a 2008 or 2010, but there’s something a little zen-like here.
2007 Tardy Jean Vosne-Romanée Les Chaumes
Medium colour. The nose has some herbal elements above an understated but quite complex mix of fruit; cherry, strawberry and eventually a long redcurrant note. There is a hint of spice too, though I’m not sure if it’s from the soil or the barrel. I find a herbal element on the palate too – not quite green, but hinting at green. The texture is reasonably smooth, and seems to have an element of weight – tannin is there as a faint rasp on the end of your tongue. Decent length in a red register. I expect this had a bit better balance 18 months ago; today it’s far from seemless, the acidity just seems to be approaching ‘sharp’ if not quite there yet, though sweet and sour with emphasis on the sour could certainly be used. Day three: (only stoppered and left at about 17°C) and this wine is suddenly delicious; all herbal references have faded to relative insignificance and the fruit has a beguiling, understated sweetness – how did that happen? I don’t know, but I’d buy it again now!
2007 Varoilles Gevrey-Chambertin Clos des Varoilles
Deep colour. The nose is forward, indeed assertive, it’s quite deep too but has a roast character to go with the darker fruit. On the positive side, the last drops in the glass are beguiling. In the mouth this is concentrated, reasonably intense too but doesn’t really come across as a ‘whole wine’. The acidity is a little spiky, in-fact a long way from seemless. Is it the storage or has there been a little mucking-about in the winemaking(?) I certainly have the impression that it may have been less than successfully acidified. Shame in either, or both cases.
2007 Rion Michele & Patrice Chambolle-Musigny Les Charmes
Medium young red colour. Very pretty red fruit still has some vanilla padding but it’s now on an altogether manageable level; surprisingly I find the fruit very focused and interesting (given the vintage). Sweet fruit leads you into a round palate – acidity comes rushing through the mid-palate into the finish. Truth be told there’s still a hint too much oak in the mid palate and finish – it’s of a sweet vanilla-coconut complexion. That said, there is a really excellent length of flavour. A wine that’s heading in the right direction. I think it might be a knock-out when it reaches it’s tenth birthday!