Deep color. The nose starts with very little, but bit-by-bit opens with fruit that’s very 05; intense, certainly ripe but still pure, uncooked fruit – it’s very nice. Mouth-filling but without obvious puffery, just intense, clean and lithe muscle. Good finish – open and captivating. Yum.
2005
2005 Voillot Joseph Volnay Les Brouillards
Medium colour. A kind of candied sweetness mixes with red fruit and eventually a beguiling floral aroma – lovely. This wine has thinned-out, plenty of acidity but intensity too and an impression of extract. Still very drinkable but not the gorgeously cushioned drinkability of its first few months in bottle. This remains a great Brouillards.
2005 Pavillon Pommard Les Rugiens
2005 Comte Armand Pommard Clos des Epeneaux
2005 Bize Simon Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Fourneaux
2005 Liger-Belair Thibault Chambolle-Musigny Les Fuées
Medium-plus colour. Deep, rich, dark red fruit aromas – almost cordial. Intense, quite some blocky extract. There’s a linear intensity through the centre of this wine – it doesn’t narrow or widen, it goes like a train. The flavour has some of the dark mineral flavour of the Jadots, it’s also very long. Today this is a little tight, austere and far from seamless but it is far from lacking material. Return in 10 years.