2003

2003 Pavillon Pommard Les Rugiens

By billn on March 22, 2011

More evolved aromas that even hint at maturity with a few forest leaves, though for now they are clearly subordinate to the fruit. This is very full, full of tannin too but quite finely grained. There remains a little dryness, but like sand it’s not astringent.

2003 Latour Henri Auxey-Duresses Les Grands Champs

By billn on December 01, 2010

The nose shows hints of leaves against a core of fruit. Lots of sweetness here, decent width too. There is plenty of tannin too that needs the sweetness of the fruit to buffer a little astringency. Clearly a child of the vintage, but there is balance enough to drink and even enjoy today.

2003 Jadot Louis Chambolle-Musigny Les Fuées

By billn on July 31, 2010

Medium-plus colour. The nose on this is also a little tight at the core, hints of menthol above red berries – here the fruit has a candied coating. Silky and intense. the acidity is understated but completely adequate. There’s a dark flavour in the mid-palate that is partly mineral, partly resembling licorice, partly saline – it is very long lasting. In all dimensions this is more muscular than the 2006, but I have the impression that what the 06 lacks in muscle it makes up for in intensity.

2003 Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin Combe aux Moines

By on November 30, 2009 #asides

I double decanted the bottle then left it in the refrigerator for 1 hour as my room temp was about 28°. Medium, medium-plus colour though still cherry-red. The nose still manages to open up with a dark, reductive, slightly toasty oak impression – but it stays in the glass for less than 5 minutes. Slowly it builds a width of creamy, macerating morello cherry aromas, ever-so slowly adding depth with time – very faint herbs overlay the fruit and eventually a little toffee. In the mouth the first word that comes to my mind is unctuous as the sweet fruit wraps around your tongue, though the fruit’s smiling face turns to a frown as the tannin begins to assert itself – it’s like fine sand in texture but far from astringent. The acidity is on a relatively low level so it both dulls the mid-palate (no extra dimension) and adds little to the slightly earthy, salty finish. Unctuous, but I can’t say succulent – there’s just not the freshness for that – I honestly found the second glass a chore. For all that, it’s rather a concentrated and serene wine and about the best 03 I’ve tried recently from the 1er/grand cru levels, I’m also convinced that the pretty fruit will further improve, but I’m not convinced it will ever (for my taste) overcome the shortcoming of the acidity…

2003 Colin Marc St.Aubin En Remilly

By on November 30, 2009 #asides

Medium-plus golden colour. The nose is slightly tropical, and certainly ripe. In the mouth there is a roundness of shape and okay acidity – the mid-palate flavour has a good extra dimension that goes long in the finish. Just missing a little energy, but smuch better than I expected!

2003 Mortet Denis Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux St.Jacques

By on April 30, 2009 #asides

(Magnum) Medium-plus colour to the same depth as the 2005, though with a more yellowing rim. Dark, muscular aromas are augmented with spice and licorice – becomes quite comforting and enveloping – riper but very similar to the 2005. Riper in the mouth too, but balanced. The dark fruit is still in the ascendent, but I see some red here too, also, for the first time, we have some obvious tannin structure, but the grain is fine. It is a big and quite mineral mouthful with dark, spicy and slightly saline quality of many in this series.

2003 Lachaux Pascal Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux St.Jacques

By on April 30, 2009 #asides

Medium-plus colour, still with a cherry-red hint. The nose has a slightly savoury, spicy width and deep, dark-skinned cherry fruit, seems reasonably fresh for the vintage. In the mouth, this is quite full and shows a very good dark-fruit dimension in the mid-palate, though the acidity is only apparent by the slowly mouth-watering, cream-edged finish. Very smooth tannin underlines the quality of the wine-making, the main nod to the vintage being an edge of warmth to the finish. Today it just begs a little spark of energy to make it more characterful – and indeed to inveigle me into pouring another glass – that may simply the how many 03’s now show themselves, I’m afraid that I don’t open enough to know. Anyway, given that it’s a beautifully crafted wine of significant dimension, I can’t ‘not recommend’ it just because I’m not a great fan of the vintage! I re-visited the wine on day two – the nose is finer and shows more clarity, whilst the palate is just a little more supple and less ‘monolithic’ – certainly more interesting, I drank 2 glasses!

2003 Remoriquet Henri & Gilles Nuits St.Georges Les Bousselots

By on March 31, 2009 #asides

A deep and impressively young colour – still some purple when many from the vintage are already browning! Very tight but nice fresh fruit aromas. A mouthful of width and plenty of tannin. The fruit is ripe though not obviously from 2003. I’m very impressed by this.

2003 Rodet Antonin Nuits St.Georges 1er Cru

By on March 31, 2009 #asides

The nose is slightly diffuse, a little spicy and shows traces of coffee. In the mouth this shows high-toned fruit, reasonable acidity and slightly forward, though not astringent, tannin. This finishes well but doesn’t seem all that ‘together’ despite decent ‘parts’.

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