1993

1993 Voillot Joseph Meursault Les Cras

By billn on October 08, 2010

Medium, medium-plus golden. There are few black bits floating in the bottle, but they sink without problem. The nose is a blast of matchstick – I guess a bit more sulfur in those days! – underpinned with a soft spice-bread note. The palate is very 1993, taught, wiry, intense and with very good acidity – add that to the usual minerality of Cras and you have quite a combination. The flavours also seem to have plenty of the matchstick aromas and there is a super extra creamy dimension as you head into a decent, more savoury finish. Not a Meursault to wallow in, this one ‘instructs’.

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1993 Cathiard André Vosne-Romanée Les Suchots

By billn on July 07, 2010

Medium mature colour. The nose starts with a depth of soil, a slight tomato lift and then beautiful smooth and fresh red/purple cherry fruit – the cherry gets stronger and stronger in the glass. Silky, slightly fat texture yet perfectly fresh. There’s almost no tannin to find. Initially it’s linear in the mid-palate yet the fruit flavour persists well. Slowly the intensity and dimension of the mid-palate swells. A beautifuly clarity of fruit shines through this wine.

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1993 Mortet Denis Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux St.Jacques

By on April 30, 2009 #asides

(Magnum) The first vintage of this wine at the domaine. Medium, medium-plus colour. If the last wines had some minor departure from the aromatic script, this is clearly back on-message; mineral, some sweetness, faint coffee and quite some complexity – super. Fat texture and still relatively primary, but it’s still intense and full of mid-palate flavour. The saline minerality is fully evident in the long finish – and it’s an excellent finish. Today it’s a massive and just vaguely monolithic experience – it might show better if there was a hint more freshness. I don’t think it will ever be noble or intricately precise, but it’s clearly built to impress.

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1993 Chauvenet Jean Nuits St.Georges Les Vaucrains

By on March 31, 2008 #asides

A medium-plus, young looking colour. Earthy, deep aromas with a mix of black and red fruit coupled to something a little more mature and savoury. In the mouth there is a mix of richness and freshness coupled to astringent tannins that probably ripe enough and certainly on the wane. Still a young showing and very impressive too.

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1993 Esmonin Frédéric Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St.Jacques

By on March 31, 2008 #asides

Medium colour. The nose is rather mature and quite ripe with an undertow of undergrowth and eventually chocolate. After the last 1993 this is fuller and riper with apparently lower acidity. There is a medium-plus length of finish and very understated structure. I would characterise this as a very friendly and ‘cosy’ wine – particularly for a 93 – one to curl up with. Possibly not a wine for the ages but it’s coming into a nice drinking window now.

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1993 Ambroise Bertrand Nuits St.Georges Rue de Chaux

By on November 30, 2006 #asides

(From magnum) Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose is quite estery, masking any real depth – at least at the start – very slowly this lifts giving a 20 minute window of nice red fruit and the start of a cedar note, but later becomes very high-toned again. The palate has a fresh yet concentrated stance with a heavy emphasis of nice black fruit. The finish is understated but long. An interesting wine that for me – apart from that 20 minute window – was spoiled by the aromatics.

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1993 Geantet-Pansiot Gevrey-Chambertin Les Poissenots

By on November 30, 2006 #asides

(From magnum) Deep ruby-red colour. Even at 13 years-old the nose still has some fall-out from the toasty oak of its youth; mixed with sweet, predominantly black shaded fruit and a little coffee – it takes some time in the glass to lose the oak, but it becomes ever-more primary with a strawberry/raspberry impression. Instant impressions are of concentration and very good acidity but only average length. Despite the length, this very youngly presented wine is certainly the most interesting Géantet-Pansiot I’ve ever had, all that I tasted from 2000-2002 seemed too soft in the middle. Expanding well in the mid-palate I even get the impression that the length improves with time, but following the hights of the ‘93 Rousseau Clos St.Jacques this is very-much on a lower level.

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1993 Rousseau Armand Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St.Jacques

By on November 30, 2006 #asides

(From magnum) Medium-plus ruby-red colour. A deep, intense, meaty nose that starts with a slightly diffuse width. There is also a faint oaky component to the depth, but it’s mainly consumed now – with time the fruit really tightens and focuses. In the mouth this wine is still immensely youthful – 10 extra years would provide ample benefit – the acidity is like a roller-coaster into the finish, and a very impressive and intense finish it is too. Bravo, but still a baby.

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1993 Pousse d'Or Volnay Caillerets

By on June 30, 2005 #asides

Deep colour. Equally deep nose of undergrowth, turned-over leaves, black fruit and black olive. Mouth-wrapping tannins, tons of black fruit that gets purer with time in the glass. I think I would have guessed Gevrey. Really interesting.

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