Beautiful medium-red colour, no obvious browning or bricking. The nose is highly engaging (this time!); a macerating, baked redcurrant note with just the merest hint of a creamy coating – interestingly there’s a little 2004-style pyrazine here too – of ~2/10 green meanie intensity – a level that adds interest, rather than turn the stomach. It starts with a narrow flavour profile, but it’s balanced, indeed fresh – a little time in the glass allows the shape of wine to fill out some. The fruit has just enough ripeness and a very faint astringency (still). I might be tempted to say that I’m drinking this a little young, but I’m finding much of interest here. At a good price I certainly might buy again.
1992
1992 Remoissenet Père et Fils Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot
1992 Carillon Louis Puligny-Montrachet Perrières
1992 Comte Georges de Vogüé Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses
Quite a deep core of ruby-red fruit, it’s only this and the ’88 Bonnes-Mares that seem to show any sign of age. The nose starts with a deep plum-skin that gradually becomes more red without ever coming close to the delineation or complexity of the ’99. Beautiful texture – this is 1st-class Burgundy. It is amply proportioned, soft and sexy. This ‘lady in love’ has little time for the intellectual, but she’s very ‘ready’ now! A really lovely wine and frankly there’s no rush to consume – my best 1992 experience.
1992 Gros Michel Vosne-Romanée Clos des Réas
1992 Rousseau Armand Gevrey-Chambertin Les Cazetiers
Medium ruby colour. The nose has a hint of undergrowth and characteristic Gevrey earth. Medium intensity palate, nice acidity, though is just a little harsh on the finish. Actually there’s still some tannin here. The wine worked really well with food but seemed lacking a little dimension in its own right – still, isn’t wine supposed to be enjoyed with food?
1992 de Montille (Hubert) Volnay Taillepieds
Still has a quite deep colour, but just a little brick at the rim. Nose is a really beautiful aged burgundy which defies description. On the palate there is still good acidity and virtually zero tannin. The mainly red fruit is still there, but only just. Nice, though the finish is verging on the acidic . Unfortunately the palate doesn’t live up to the nose. Not a wine to search for.