1985

1985 Dauphin Cave du Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St.Jacques

By billn on October 07, 2011

The first task was successful – the cork came out in one piece. I poured a little and the colour was pretty good, and clearly as I swirled there was some viscosity – the glycerol clinging to the side of the glass. The first aroma was of soil but it was very quickly joined by dark molasses – very clean though. In the mouth this wine exemplifies why I see 1985 and 2009 as close cousins – there is depth, good flavour, ample sweetness and in this case a little glycerol-enhanced fat – what more could you want? Well maybe just the merest hint more acidity, but it’s nit-picking really! There’s still a little tannin if you search for it and a brown-sugar dimension to the finishing flavours. Clearly an ‘easy’ wine, but equally one that’s very easy to like and enjoy.

1985 Bertagna Vougeot Clos de la Perrière

By billn on January 09, 2011

This showed a little more density and concentration than Bertagna’s 1985 ‘Le Cras’ but was seemingly a little less fine. After 20 minutes in the glass there was a very occasional whiff of something like cork taint. I’m not the most sensitive to TCA, often tasting it before smelling it. This Perrières remained tasty, quite drinkable and nicely in it’s maturity pahase/plateau – but always with a nagging doubt…

1985 Bertagna Vougeot Les Cras

By billn on January 07, 2011

Medium colour. The nose is edged with a little mushroom but swirl and you fall headlong into a depth of sweet, blood-red fruit – lovely! In the mouth this doesn’t have quite the same fat as either Gevrey, but it has for my taste a nicer balance; the acidity is a little more to the fore, there is a slightly more mineral stance and the mid-palate has a lovely growth of still lacy fruit flavour. More complex and finer if less impact than either Gevrey – but impact isn’t everything – I might look at food to tone-down the Gevreys, I’m savouring this on its own.

1985 Bertagna Vougeot Les Cras

By billn on January 07, 2011

Medium colour. The nose is edged with a little mushroom but swirl and you fall headlong into a depth of sweet, blood-red fruit – lovely! In the mouth this doesn’t have quite the same fat as either Gevrey, but it has for my taste a nicer balance; the acidity is a little more to the fore, there is a slightly more mineral stance and the mid-palate has a lovely growth of still lacy fruit flavour. More complex and finer if less impact than either Gevrey – but impact isn’t everything – I might look at food to tone-down the Gevreys but I’m savouring this on its own – delicious!

1985 Pontbriand Lionel de Gevrey-Chambertin

By billn on January 06, 2011

Medium-plus ruby-red that fades and transforms to mahogany at the rim. Deep, slightly musky and meaty aromas over a sweeter, almost sugared core of fruit – if anything it puts on ever-more weight with time. This has a lovely silky fatness to the texture and hints at sweetness before snatching it away again – fully ripe at harvest? – yet there is a mineral, almost metallic flavour at the core that seems almost cleansing, the acidity is quite understated. Half an hour in glass and the metallic impression is gone and there’s more than a hint of some extra mid-palate flavour. The finish may be a little understated but its reminiscent of sweet and dark, bitter-chocolate and it’s very long.

1985 Jadot Louis Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux St.Jacques

By on June 30, 2009 #asides

The first vintage from 0.22 hectares of vines acquired from Domaine Clair Daü. Medium colour. The nose is a perfect sphere of sweet, chocolaty, new leather and warm red fruit aromas – it’s really beautiful. Still a background of grainy tannin and a dark mineral note that runs all the way through into the finish – maybe a hint of licorice too. The finish falls away a little too quickly – but I could fix that – I just took another sip! Really beautiful.

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