A depth of aromas, slightly musky with hints of creme brulee. This is rather unctuous for an 07, lots of depth but very understated acidity – again lots of complexity, plenty of creamy vanilla from the barrels. The flavour grows in the mid-palate, before a long diminuendo in the finish – and there really is a lot of complexity – only here do you find the characteristic minerality of this vineyard. There is no overt toast shown by this concentrated and impressive wine, but all the same, I’d have preferred a little less barrel flavour in this relative youth.
Jomain Marc
2009 Jomain Marc Puligny-Montrachet Perrières
In bottle for about 1 month. This is wide and concentrated – actually the concentration sneaks up on you – there is much more here than I first thought. Not quite the focus of the 2008, but that could be the recent bottling. There is good balance, though after the acidity of the 08s I’m left wanting more.
2007 Jomain Marc St.Aubin Les Frionnes
2008 Jomain Marc Puligny-Montrachet Perrières
2008 Jomain Marc Puligny-Montrachet Combettes
2008 Jomain Marc Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles
Once more there’s an extra hint of ripeness to the fruit, set against a lovely width of aromas. Again quite mineral. There is a modest attempt to cover the structure with some richness but the tasty frame of acidity remains clear. I often think of power when tasting Pucelles, but here is finesse – super.
2005 Jomain Marc Puligny-Montrachet Combettes
A medium lemon yellow colour and a nose of citrus width, though never developing anything other than a little brioche depth. The palate is quite a mouthfull and initially reasonably textured, but as it slowly slides to the finish there is a little oaky texture and a lot of oak flavour. Despite concentration and intensity I’m currently missing freshness and a 1er cru mid-palate dimension. It’s a little one-dimensional and far from mouth-watering. I wouldn’t open another for 3-4 years to let the oak subside and hopefully unleash the wine within. The oak just needs time, but where will additional freshness come from(?) I won’t quite describe it as humble pie, but after 48 hours in the refridgerator, there’s a nice extra creamy dimension on the nose and palate, and that oak has largely melted. I’d still like more acidity but this is at least a ‘maybe’ now…
2005 Jomain Marc Puligny-Montrachet Perrières
Medium-pale lemon yellow colour. Width, and after their Combettes a more obvious higher-toast oak depth, with cream-edged pear fruit. The palate is more lithe and linear with better acidity. Good dimension in the mid-palate and the oak is less jarring and textured, super length here. This also needs 3 or 4 years for the oak to lessen, and the higher toast is not my beau, but there’s real quality here. Already after 2 hours open the high toast is transformed. Not as obviously dense as the Combettes but finer balance.