Medium colour. The nose is wide with flashes of dark red berries though essentially it’s a tight core of fruit. Very slowly it adds a creamy accent and quite pretty. The palate is lithe and finely muscled, not fat but certainly intense. Good understated acidity and a very mineral, quite dense and long-lasting flavour from the mid-palate onwards into the finish. Impressive.

Medium-plus colour. The nose on this is also a little tight at the core, hints of menthol above red berries – here the fruit has a candied coating. Silky and intense. the acidity is understated but completely adequate. There’s a dark flavour in the mid-palate that is partly mineral, partly resembling licorice, partly saline – it is very long lasting. In all dimensions this is more muscular than the 2006, but I have the impression that what the 06 lacks in muscle it makes up for in intensity.