2003

2003 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne

By billn on December 06, 2010

A ripe but still quite mineral nose. Full on the palate – clearly there’s no raging torrent of acidity but this is nicely mouth-watering – and not just as an afterthought. There is density and real authority to the mid-palate flavours, would make a great match to many dishhes at table. This has no sharp edges at all – this balance indicates no rush to drink.

2003 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne

By billn on December 03, 2010

A ripe but still quite mineral nose. Full on the palate – clearly there’s no raging torrent of acidity but this is nicely mouth-watering – and not just as an afterthought. There is density and real authority to the mid-palate flavours, would make a great match to many dishhes at table. This has no sharp edges at all – this balance indicates no rush to drink.

2003 Ravaut Gaston et Pierre Corton Les Hautes Murottes

By billn on December 01, 2010

The nose delivers faint leaves and an almost textured effect .- sweet fruit underpins everything. It offers the unashamed ripe fruit flavours of the vintage which, in this case, I don’t find too wearing. Holding well…

2003 Girardin Vincent Chevalier-Montrachet

By billn on February 25, 2010

And what an impressive bottle – and I mean the bottle – a super-deep punt and heavy glass. On pouring, nothing untoward on the colour, but the nose has the first whiffs of oxidation – annoying rather than destructive. Across the palate this is certainly balanced enough and displays a generous extra mass versus the 03 Girardin Charlemagne, the texture is good too. Unfortunately this is linear and young – tasty but little overt complexity – just what you don’t want to hear after the oxidative hints on the nose. That’s a shame, as non-oxidising bottles won’t be anywhere near peaking in the next 5 years…

2003 Girardin Vincent Corton-Charlemagne

By billn on February 25, 2010

Medium-plus yellow. The nose is dense and ripe at the core, but a mix of floral and savoury notes makes this quite complex and interesting. In the mouth there’s decently textured impact and good mid-palate dimension. It doesn’t really seem to want for acidity. Tasty enough that the bottle didn’t last very long!

2003 Lachaux Pascal Latricières-Chambertin

By on November 30, 2009 #asides

Medium-plus colour. Brooding aromas of dark cherry and cassis that are framed with warm, sweet coffee. Mouth-filling, slightly acid-shy but good texture and fantastic length. There’s a slight bitterness that mingles with the creamy fruit in the mid-palate, tannin is fine with the merest leading-edge of astringency. Really, this a bottle to wallow in rather than intellectualise over, yet the IQ is there if you want to challenge it. Very impressive indeed.

2003 Lambrays Clos des Lambrays

By on March 31, 2009 #asides

A high-toned and nicely fresh nose of red berries over something initailly a little musty – the must slowly evolves to creamy soil notes. The palate is very ripe but the fruit retains some freshness and avoids being ‘roast’. The flavour is good and shows no obvious jarr from the tannin. This is very supple but not as long as many here.

2003 Clos de Tart Clos de Tart

By on March 31, 2009 #asides

‘Big’, saturated colour. An opulent, almost ‘Barossa’ nose that slowly, slowly opens and widens and even begins to impress. The palate, likewise, starts concentrated and peppery. There’s plenty of coffee yet mineral elements too. There’s a suggestion of heat on the finish – a very long finish – but blind you wouldn’t pick ‘burgundy’…

2003 Girardin Vincent Corton-Charlemagne

By on March 31, 2009 #asides

Deeper yellow. The nose is dense and more obviously displays ripe fruit. In the mouth it’s well textured, even slightly oily, and suddenly widens to great effect in the mid-palate. A perfect wine for sipping alone – it just needs a little extra acidity to lift it to the next level – but finishes well.

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