1995

1995 Lambrays Clos des Lambrays

By on March 31, 2009 #asides

There’s a lovely width of powdery red cherry fruit and faint almond – it smells wonderful. Likewise in the mouth, a width of lovely flavours. The tannin certainly needs another 3-5 years, also the acidity has some lift. Interesting but understated length. Far from perfect but wonderful personality.

1995 Clos de Tart Clos de Tart

By on March 31, 2009 #asides

Wide, herby, and cooly mineral aromas. Plenty of depth of flavour, some maturity but the tannin despite being less forward than the Lambrays also needs 3-5 years. There’s a slight metallic edge to the flavours but not too bad. Good, but less successful than the Lambrays.

1995 Drouhin Joseph Clos de la Roche

By on March 31, 2009 #asides

Medium, medium-pale ruby-red. A little sweetness and minerality on the nose, faint red and orange fruit but for the first hour rather undemonstrative. On your tongue there’s perfect acidity and an intensity that builds all the more over time, though needs at least 1 hour to start becoming interesting. The tannin is relatively background and eventually a little fat develops. This becomes almost good without ever becoming really interesting.

1995 Drouhin Joseph Clos de Vougeot

By on March 31, 2009 #asides

A deep core of fruit. The nose is an interesting blend of deep notes, leafy sous bois and plenty savoury width – it’s very nice without ever removing its jacket. Wide, super acidity, background tannin and a wave of mid-palate intensity. Slowly fading flavours finish a very interesting wine. Far from ‘easy’ or ‘open for business’ but this is a nice glass today, and should end up being very super…

1995 Drouhin Joseph Corton

By on March 31, 2009 #asides

Medium ruby-red colour – perhaps a little muddy. For the first 2 hours this is a ’so what’ wine, a nose that seems a little roast and shows flavours that offer little interest and no charm. Very slowly the nose takes on a little width, and whilst far from effusive seems a little fresher. The palate slowly becomes fatter and develops more complexity – its best ‘angle’ is certainly the mix of lingering flavours, though the acidity and tannin are pretty good.

1995 Maume Mazis-Chambertin

By on March 31, 2008 #asides

Medium-plus colour right to the rim. The nose is a really interesting and characterful mix of chalk and chocolate, wide dark fruit and fainter floral elements – super. Smooth and rather linear in the mouth, but you are borne the dark-fruit finish on fine acidity. It lingers very well but the interest is today only on the nose and finish – maybe a few years will pad-out the palate too.

1995 Dujac Clos de la Roche

By on November 30, 2006 #asides

(From Magnum) Medium, medium-plus ruby-red, and a little brighter than the 75cl bottle that I last opened. The nose takes time to get into it’s stride; starting with faint smoke and a slightly estery width, but there is an ever-sweetening and intensifying core of red fruit that eventually becomes more floral – though it’s a heavy rather than refined scent – impressive and moreish all the same. The slowly intensifying fruit on the nose is mirrored by the taste, always building in the mouth, just a transient petillance too. Good acidity and dry but not blocky tannin and long with a dark-fruit aspect to the finish. The stems don’t seem to engender the fresh purity of some wines, but the complexity is there for all to see. Very impressive.

1995 Romanée-Conti La Tâche

By on October 31, 2005 #asides

Almost as deep colour as the 1996, but perhaps with an extra hint of youth. On pouring the nose is a little diffuse, it needs time to develop into a wonderfully meaty mix of savoury and fruit driven aspects. Doesn’t have quite the volume in the mouth as the 1996 but rather than building it’s attack, it delivers a knockout punch right from the start – even seems slightly fresher than 1996. The tannins still have quite a rasp, but there’s the next 20 years-plus to wait for them to soften. Gorgeous intensity. I slightly prefer this to our bottle of 1996.

1995 Arnoux Robert Echézeaux

By on June 30, 2005 #asides

The deepest colour of all these wines. A brooding raspberry and black cherry nose. Dense palate with staining flavours. Very long with a little rasping texture to the tannins. A rough and ready wine that falls short of elegance but has undoubted eloquence. Really very, very good.

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