Medium-plus colour. The nose shows more caramel, less dark oak, and a little more red and orange, though slightly estery, higher-toned fruit. The fruit aroma is nice but clearly less sophisticated versus the first two wines. Soft and silky with very fine acidity and (once more) simply superb length. The fruit on the palate is just a little riper than both of the first wines. A beauty

The nose is understated, wide and fresh. The palate is likewise impressively fresh (for 97) and shows quite some grainy tannin. Nothing is pushed but this is very impressive – I’d buy some!

Medium-plus colour. The nose starts more oaky than I remember. The fruit is dense and red – super-clean like gelée. The palate starts wide and then narrows, then narrows some more – very linear, understated and long. This is super but very much younger showing than my last visit.

The nose starts a little ripe and plummy, maybe even beetroot. It’s not so elegant to start with but slowly begins to release some wonderful red fruit – but it’s a passing phase and later tightens. The palate has some fat and a lovely texture. It actually seems a little simple vs the 1996 and certainly not as long. Still it’s a lovely wine.

Very deep colour. The nose starts with a little pine and then beautiful intense red fruit – reminds me of the 99 de Vogüé Amoureuses – a superb ‘sniffers’ wine. The palate is young and athletic – too young – but very balanced. A wine in waiting, but aromatically wonderful.