Entries from 2022

offer of the day – domaine leflaive 2019 & 2020 mâconnais & chalonnaise

By billn on May 08, 2022 #the market

DOMAINE LEFLAIVE 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020
Mâcon-Verzé 2017, 2018, 2019 75cl 33.00 (Swiss francs*)
Mâcon-Verzé Les Chênes 2017, 2018, 2019 75cl 38.00
Mâcon-Verzé Le Monté 2019 75cl 39.00
Pouilly-Fuissé 2020 (2019, 2018) 75cl 52.00 (49.00, 49.00)
Rully 1er Cru Leflaive & Associés 2017, 2018, 2020 75cl 49.00
Image, right, ex-Domaine Leflaive

As usual from this merchant, the prices are ‘delivered’ but without the mandatory 7.7% purchase tax. Save for a little jump for the Pouilly, stable as she goes…

2020 Thillardon, Chénas Vibrations

By billn on May 06, 2022 #degustation

Thillardon Vibration

2020 Thillardon, Chénas Vibrations
It’s not often that a bottle is drunk on an evening chez moi – even with two of us to satisfy – but this wine managed it with ease! Medium red colour with a nose that suggests no sulfur then over-delivers on attractive red berry fruit. In the mouth; sweetness, plenty of generosity too, yet never ponderous. There’s a mineral energy too here that befits the name of this cuvée – and frankly, it was just delicious.
Rebuy – Yes

March Burgundy Report online

By billn on May 05, 2022 #reports

March 2022[It goes without saying – for subscribers!]

Mopping up some Beaujolais domaines moved from February into March and a mix of names – new and old – from the Côte d'Or and Mâconnais.

This report, as always, has those wines worth a special search highlighted for you in blue. That's now over 300 domaines (304) for this 2020 vintage season – with, the winemakers giving their thoughts on 2020 and 2021. Of course, there are more to come before we switch to the 2021 vintage!


Most important news of the day…

By billn on May 05, 2022 #sad losses...

I don’t know if the gentleman – now with only one ball – was invited to this ceremony!

recent wines – week 17 2022

By billn on May 02, 2022 #degustation

2016 Buisson-Charles, Chablis Vaudésir
Patrick Essa has been making a range of maison wines for a few years now. This was served blind and had a ripeness yet energy that made me think of the best producers in Mâconnais – but not Pouilly-Fuisse. There was a modestly exotic style to the fruit but a clean attack that should have reminded me that 2016 is quite a favourite of mine in Chablis. Overall, a great wine for such a ‘non-standard’ Chablis, yet one that properly reflects the vintage there. It drank great for the whole night!
Rebuy – Yes

2016 Vincent Dancer, Meursault Les Grands Charrons
Another wine of supple, slightly exotic flavours – at this age the vintage completely outshining the place. Another wine that you would justly call delicious despite, in this case, having no single feature that you might consider Murisaltien! Yum!
Rebuy – Maybe

2010 Daniel Rion, Vosne-Romanée 1er Les Beaux-Monts
Another wine that was served blind, and what a tour de force of a nose – much more mature than you expect from the vintage, full of sous-bois and enticing mature character. It seemed to me to be a warmer vintage so I considered 1997 or 2000 to be suitable vintages and perhaps from a very place – such as Chapelle-Chambertin… So much for blind guessing! But this was a wine that was completely on song – the first to be opened from this case, no-less!
Rebuy – Yes

2020 Camille & Laurent Schaller, Chablis
Here’s a wine with no hint of the 2020 greens – just a very attractive and properly mineral yet tasty wine. All as it should be from this (otherwise) excellent vintage. Super!
Rebuy – Yes

1999 Nicolas Potel, Volnay 1er Clos des Chênes
When released, this wine was one of my joint-top-three Volnays of the vintage – it wasn’t possible to separate this from Lafon’s Santenots or d’Angerville’s Ducs – 3-4 years later this was clearly in third place – though still something great. This may, unfortunately, be my last bottle – unfortunately, because it was such a bravura wine – concentrated, clean, complex, a little muscular, even a little young – certainly younger than the 2010 Rion. But a beauty – a real beauty! Bravo!
Rebuy – Yes

2000 Bessin-Tremblay, Chablis 1er Montmains
As the previous bottle – great wine from an excellent vintage. Bravo!
Rebuy – Yes

offer of the day – Angerville 2020

By billn on May 01, 2022 #the market

The prices from my usual merchant in Switzerland:

Domaine Marquis d’Angerville 2020 (in brackets the prices of the 2019s, 2018s and then the 2016s – I never saw 2017s…)
Volnay 1er Cru 2020 75cl 85.00 (79.00, 75.00, —)* (Swiss Francs)
Volnay Fremiet 1er Cru 2020 75cl 115.00 (105.00, 105.00, 105.00)
Volnay Champans 1er Cru 2020 75cl 149.00 (129.00, 129.00, 129.00)
Volnay Clos des Ducs 1er Cru 2020 75cl 248.00 (215.00, 198.00, —)

These 2020s are available for delivery only at the end of this year. The price you see is ‘delivered’ but ex 7.7% Swiss purchase tax. That’s a jump!

a few bottles, mainly from last week…

By billn on April 28, 2022 #degustation

Just a few wines that were drunk before last weekend – the weekend wines will follow – but what can I remember? 😉

2016 Raphaël Chopin, Beaujolais Lantignie La Savoye
Full coloured – and with a ton of tartrate rubble to deposit in the last glass too! Full, warm-weather aromatic but not cooked. Really impressive size for this wine – more than the 2019, for instance. Supple, layered, concentrated but just about avoiding ‘heavy.’ Excellent!
Rebuy – Yes

2020 Cyril Gauthier, Chablis Vieilles-Vignes
One of my new ‘house wines’ for this year – but showing the problem of 2020: Not a hint of pyrazine from the tank-sample at the domaine but clearly there’s a lick of it here. Yet! The same bottle on day 2, neither I nor my equally sensitive better half could find any – it was just fabulous. So, I will be decanting this an hour or 2 beforehand. I seem to be already down to my last 8 bottles – oups!
Rebuy – Maybe

2017 Domaine d’Henri, Chablis 1er Fourchaume Héritage
Right out of the gates – great wine. Of course, still a baby – but a mineral and citrus-infused wine that was completely delicious and as classic as you can imagine any Chablis to be from the last 6-7 years. Bravo!
Rebuy – Yes

2019 Frederic Berne, Régnié Aux Bruyères
Silky, concentrated, pure class in a glass!
Rebuy – Yes

1998 Denis Mortet, Gevrey-Chambertin
Practically undrinkable young (for this palate) with its heavy cigarette-ash oaky nose – but now it’s in great shape. Admittedly, a strong aromatic remains – one that’s now a mix of tobacco and sous-bois – but lovers of mature wine will be purring. Balanced, layered deliciously complex mature wine. Bravo!
Rebuy – Yes

2019 Boris Champy, Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune Altitude 377
Anyone brought up on the Bourgognes of the 1990s and onwards will be shocked by how good the Bourgognes of today can be – and here’s another. Despite being Boris’s first vintage and really only being present for the harvest and elevage of this wine – it’s lovely. Fine open, pure-red-fruited delicious stuff. There’s fine energy as you might expect from the Hautes Côtes but there’s depth and class to this flavour too. His 2020s were even better when tasted last year. Super wine!
Rebuy – Yes

And the winner is? Yes, it’s Jon Wyand, again…

By billn on April 27, 2022 #annual laurels

You have to hand it to Jon Wyand, winner of the 2022 Errazuriz wine-photographer of the year competition. Or more correctly the “PinkLady®Food Photographer of the Year – category Errazuriz Wine Photographer of the Year” – I hope it’s a big trophy to fit all that in, and his name!

But seriously, Jon is just so consistent. He has an eye for possibilities with his camera that I can only applaud. I love both his still lives and the ease of his subjects in his portraits – his winning shot this year is a combination of both – captioned by the BBC as ‘Winter prunings gathered in the vineyards of Corton Hill in Burgundy’ it is a photo taken by Jon before 8am in December, in Bressandes…

You can find the wider BBC report here.

Jon Wyand - gathering the prunings in Corton
Image courtesy of Jon Wyand

Beaune’s Bike to Care?

By billn on April 26, 2022 #events

Bike to Care

With significant impetus from, it seems, the team at Louis Jadot, there’s a charity event lined up for Beaune on Monday-Tuesday/9-10 May. Two days of teams biking (cycling!) courses in the Côte de Beaune/Hautes Côtes and the Côte de Nuits/Hautes Côtes – both courses approaching 100km, or 60 miles, in length.

As described by the website which supports this initiative:

“Over the course of the past year, our friends in the restaurant business have been living through exceptionally challenging times. In order to thank them for their fidelity to our business, to support them and to stimulate their continued interest in their business, we are launching a dynamic project that we hope will encourage industry solidarity: Bike to Care en Bourgogne

The aim is to raise funds to support the restaurant and hotel trade given their less than productive 2 years during the many covid-related closures and confinements.

Teams of cyclists will be made up of chefs, sommeliers and hoteliers from France and abroad – there is also a section for journalists – though apparently this group seem less energetic and takers were few and far between. In that context Frédéric Barnier of Louis Jadot got in touch with me; I’m no cyclist – my bike has done 10km in the last 5 years! – but I suggested that I could run. Of course, not the full 60 miles – I may be stupid but I’m not that stupid 😉

So, I shall be running the last section of Monday’s Beaune – South Loop – the small matter of Santenay to Beaune – 20km. If, from distance, you’d like to support this event and make a small donation to the cause, I shall be part of the team ‘PARTENAIRES FRANCE’ so please feel free to contribute using this link: PARTENAIRES FRANCE

And, of course, if you are in or around Beaune on that day, feel free to cheer us all along our way
The route is here

Burgundy Report

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