Armand Heitz | Le Cellier, Pommard

Update 21.8.2022(2.8.2022)billn

I took the chance to visit Armand Heitz’s ‘Cellier’ in Pommard. You pay a modest fee to taste, but you are tasting commercially available wines direct from the producer – a very good producer, at that. I tasted a mix of 2020s and 2019s – but all bottled and available in this shop.

Decent paid-for tastings in the Côte d’Or are rare but here’s one I can wholeheartedly recommend…

2019 St.Aubin 1er Les Murgers des Dents du Chiens Red
Have the monopole of red from here – in this vintage
Broad, airy above, slightly heavier in the depth. Silkier and much more impressive in the mouth than the nose suggests. Saline – wide, and lots of layers to this flavour. That’s a very good wine…

2020 Pommard 1er Clos des Poutures
The domaine’s monopole made with 50% whole clusters with about 20% new barrels
The whole clusters are more visible here but it’s still a very good invitation. Supple, silky, layered wine. I love the energy and growing intensity. That’s a really top villages – bravo!

2020 Volnay 1er Les Santenots
A négoce wine.
A nose of airy width and finely growing perfume. More structural and open in the mouth – that’s very classy – I love the energy here. Depth of flavour too. You could drink it now but better in 3-5 years!

2020 Pommard 1er Rugiens
From ‘haut’.
Spiced, perfumed aromatics from the whole clusters. Rounder but nothing over-generous or fat here. Wide, seamless finishing – great, great finish – and simply excellent wine.

Les Whites:

2019 Meursault
A négoce wine that’s a blend of more than one parcel.
A nicely direct nose, not so deep or high-toned but attractive all the same. Hmm, there’s a relaxed style to this that does make me think of Meursault, layers, mouth-watering and even vibrant finish – what a great finish again.

2019 St.Aubin 1er Les Murgers des Dents du Chien
Wider, a fine intensity to this riper fruit. Vibrant and mineral counterbalanced with some ripeness of fruit but never too much. Holding a strong, long finish. More than very good wine…

2020 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Morgeot
From Petit Clos, there Tête de Clos is bottled separately under that name.
There is power here but it is delivered with restraint. Wide, extra mineral, fine texture. Here is a quality wine, the finish extended by slow-moving waves of finishing flavour – very impressive…

2020 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er 1er Maltroie
That’s a super nose – cushioned, more airy and fine perfumed – personally I like this more. Gorgeous, seamless wine – apart from the mouth-perfume I could see this as Meursault-Perrières. It’s a beautiful wine – bravo!

Agree? Disagree? Anything you'd like to add?

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