weekend wines – week 9 2022


week 9 2022

Quite a mix – also my reactions versus my expectations too!

2020 Georges Duboeuf, Pouilly-Fuissé 1er Clos Reyisser
The Duboeuf family actually do own vines here and whilst the label and corks seem to indicate it might have been made at their factory, here is actually a ‘domaine’ wine. And of course from the first year of premier crus.
My first impression is that the nose is a little round from the barrel elevage – and the palate too – there’s no real distinction or interest here. I had a brainwave and thought (largely imperceptible) gas might be making a difference. I shook the bottle 4 or 5 times with my finger in the neck – this did indeed release a lot of gas. The nose wasn’t particularly helped but the palate became a lot more interesting; a sleeker more structured impression, of minerality and much better form. I rather liked it from here forward. Not exceptional but, essentially, correct and tasty – which was a very positive improvement. I know I drank this way too young and expect that it should improve.
Rebuy – Maybe

2016 Laurent Tribut, Chablis
This vintage remains an absolute favourite of mine – The ‘cut’ of 12 or 14 but the extra concentration of fruit meaning less austerity – ignore the naysayers say I! Unfortunately, already my last bottle of this.
Oh yes – we are clearly in for a treat. Clarity of fine, ripe, but very fresh, cool, fruit with just enough seashore to indicate intent. If the nose shows intent then the palate delivers in spades – this can only be from Chablis! Direct, pure, cool-fruit – and,. of course, overtly mineral. Yet here’s such an easily assimilable package that the bottle is drained in double-quick time – a shame – but bravo!!!
Rebuy – Yes

1995 Delas, Hermitage Les Bessards
Even, way back when, these were not cheap wines – I remember buying at auction 6-packs of this and the 1994. I think the ‘greater,’ or at least the easier to drink 1994 has all, sadly departed from my cellar but of the (always needed more time) 1995 there remained 2-3 bottles, so…
An impressive nose of depth and freshness – hyper-complex florals punctuate a broad creosote aroma of railway sleepers. The creosote is still visible but on a lower order in the flavours. A wine of fine acidity and direct style – not particularly tannic but structural. The finish a laser-beam of red and black berried complexity. Still more of an exercise than a fully delicious thing but the finish was gorgeous. Keep patience!
Rebuy – Maybe

1998 Domaine Louis Jadot, Chambertin Clos de Bèze
I bought this wine in ‘pair’ too – 6 of these and 6 of the 1999. Whilst more affordable in 2002/2003, they have never been ‘cheap.’
A compact yet complex nose – there’s a little nice development here – very attractive if not particularly forward. This nose made some promises that palate struggled to make good. There is depth, there is complexity – this is no ordinary wine – but the combination of AOC hierarchy and price (today) were steps too far for this bottle. In isolation, it’s an excellent wine but given any proper context – it was average at best and absolutely underperforms versus the modern pricing. Day two and the nose had a touch of brett though the palate remained consistent.
Rebuy – No

2012 Le Grappin, Beaune 1er Boucherottes
My last bottle, I think.
A rounder, redder fruit nose – far from the complexity of the Jadot but attractively easier. The palate reflects the nose with red fruit and a slight extra sweetness to that fruit. There is complexity here and a wine that’s comfortable to drink. I did prefer it younger but it’s still in a very good place. Clearly a ‘lesser’ wine than the Bèze – except for value – where this scores very well.
Rebuy – Yes

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