“…this is the result of the flawed configuration of its unequal and disproportionate parts, which tear up the pores of the organ when they are not yet dulled; and which, becoming dulled afterwards, suddenly cease to make a sensory impression.”

And of course, to counter:

“The wine of Reims is thin, not quite wine-flavored, and acid, which, like most other white wines, has the strength to make urine, but very little to nourish and to warm.”

Found today, and worth 15 minutes of your time…
https://quillandpad.com/2022/01/11/inside-burgundys-history-including-a-royal-war-with-champagne/