Plenty of rain – Chablis 14 January 2021 – I didn’t fancy a dip in the Serein on this day…
My own version of dry January is down to my tasting schedule – three weeks of, and in, Chablis. Sometimes 80 wines in a day, but nothing in the evening – the number of domains with 20 or more samples is rare in this region but I did have three in a row one afternoon last week. I’m not the type to drink alone – so it’s good to get home for the weekend to share some glasses.
My 2019 house white – almost 3 cases drunk with friends over not just the summer months that year – was the Julien Brocard’s 2017 Biodynamic Chablis Boissoneuse so time to try a newer one:
2018 Julien Brocard, Chablis Boissonneuse
As with all this range, DIAM-sealed and topped with an orange wax.
Attractive though not a particularly saline nose. In the mouth there’s a fleshy depth to this texture but an undertow of minerality that would definitely have me thinking of Chablis, despite some textural comfort – more than the 2018 Fevre for instance. This has super clarity and a long and delicious finish. Very enjoyable
Rebuy – Yes
2005 Dubreuil-Fontaine, Volnay
A high proportion of 1er cru juice included in this cuvée. This wine was a poster-child for that sub-set of 2005s that were tight and unyielding. I noted a slight easing of that situation 2 years ago and I’d say that the transformation is now complete – far from mature but it’s now drinking well.
A nose that’s open, has plenty of red-fruited depth and, shock, even the impression of a little textural comfort! The aspect of textural comfort is reflected in the flavour too – rounder than ever before, still with concentrated young fruit but of clarity, energy and depth. This has become a very attractive wine and one that also holds up very well after opening – I finished the last glass on the third day after opening and it was almost as delicious as the first two days. Now a very fine 2005 that you can drink – oh, and way back when, this cost less than the wine that follows!
2016 Château Thivin, Côte de Brouilly Cuvée Zaccharie
Hmm – that’s a nicely cushioned aroma of darker red fruit – very inviting. I love the texture here, the depth of fruit too – a young wine that’s drinking beautifully already. Nothing tertiary – all is pure fruit and much, much enjoyment. Bravo!