some weekend wines – obviously!


An evening in Beaune with Marko de Morey – he kindly contributed the Arlaud

2015 Bouchard Père, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er En Remilly
Interesting to compare to the 2013 of a couple of weeks ago – that wine was by far the readier and the better for it. I note a shorter DIAM here – DIAM5 and no-longer the 54 mm version
A round and easy nose with a little oak showing through. Round, sweet, creme-brulée flavoured and a little – but today not enough – citrus in the mix. Far too round and easy – though easy to drink too! Not worth the tariff if you plan to drink it right now. I won’t open another for 3 or 4 years…
Rebuy – Maybe

2000 Arlaud, Clos de la Roche
Plenty of maturity to this colour, even a small amount of browning. Ooh – now that’s a nose – round, forward, complex and oh-so inviting despite the merest suggestion of brett – yes! A narrow entry that widens at speed – there is concentration but also a nicely alive freshness – I still note a little attractively ‘dirty’ barrel impression here. A finish that slowly – but only slowly – fades into the distance with a little mint-leaf. Such excellent balance here. A little was left for day two, and the brett was much more forward, also much more visible was a steely finishing minerality which is more common for the cru. Really a top wine on day one, still more than interesting on day two.
Rebuy – Yes

1999 Bertagna, Vougeot 1er Clos des Perrières
I remember early bottles of thas had an unattractive – to me – sweetness that verged on the saccharine, but here, finally, we have a wine that’s showing beautifully.
As to be expected from the vintage, a nose with a certain freshness – but delicacy too – not the same volume of aroma as the Arlaud but this is clearly going to be very good – and there’s no brett! Flavour-wise, this ripples over the palate, waves of flavour, slightly brown-sugared, but nothing untoward. A cleaner, if slightly less involving finish versus the wine of Arlaud. Beautiful finishing with a little extra floral character. Like the Arlaud, some of this made it to day 2 – this was the more stable of the two and easily the best after overnighting. On day one it was a much closer call with no clear winner. Excellent stuff!
Rebuy – Yes

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