2002 Georges Mugneret (Gibourg), Gevery-Chambertin*
I remember that from the very start that this 2002 was a wonderful wine – though this seems to be my last bottle. The 2003 fell off its pedestal rather quickly – at least my bottles – and I’ve none more to compare. The 2004 was full of pyrazines but the 2005 was great – I hope I’ve one more 2005 but my recent cellar searches have revealed nothing in this direction.
The colour is not much more than medium intensity and there’s some bricking to the colour too. The nose starts narrow but deep – invitingly deep – faint soil, graphite, spice and flowers on the nose. Instantly wide, energetic and fresh – but also with depth to this flavour – the graphite element on the nose is more to the fore in the flavours – and what a super intensity of middle and finishing flavour! This is brilliant for villages Gevrey – but of-course, even declassified, there is so much to find here. Bravo – a great wine even, particularly in the finish, even if only a modest Mugneret-Gibourg Ruchottes-Chambertin!
Rebuy – Yes (I wish!)
*2002 was the first vintage for this wine – a declassified young vine Ruchottes-Chambertin. The domaine replanted half of their 0.64-hectare Ruchottes-Chambertin parcel in 2000, the original vines had been planted in 1950 but were not very productive. So this 2002 ‘Gevrey-Chambertin’ – it was officially allowed to have the grand cru name but the domaine decided to wait for the quality – was the first cuvée made from these new vines. As the vines slowly matured, the domaine transitioned the wine from a village to a premier cru label in the 2007 vintage. From the very low yielding 2012 vintage, the young vines were blended with the old – and they have stayed that way ever since. Note that in every vintage there was a Ruchottes-Chambertin cuvée – just smaller, until 2012. This 2002 might very well be my last – and that would be a shame – it was an expensive village wine, but every one of my 6 bottles has overperformed. The 2003 and 2004 were much less successful wines, and so poor value versus the prices – those young vines more easily compromised by the difficult growing seasons – but the 2005 was as much a star as the 2002.
2017 Diconne, Auxey-Duresses Vieilles-Vignes
A new discovery for me since the 2016 vintage, not just great Auxey – they are based in Auxey – but some very fine Meursault cuvées too. Definitely worth your time and very well priced.
An airy freshness to this nose, under it’s showing a little lemon tart – meringue included. Time in the glass brings more precision, less meringue! In the mouth there’s still a little barrel sweetness, but there’s a proper and fine juicy, mineral, finish – a little structured here. Super young wine!