I’m a little late posting today – there was some football. Given the result, I suppose that I’d better not speak German in winery tomorrow…
On the positive side of things, according to the team of pickers, the vineyards were much less sticky today!
Today saw lots of fruit from Savigny – Hautes Jarrons and Aux Jarrons – respectively white and red. Then there was red Chorey, a big parcel that we will finish tomorrow. With a few additional questions, I’ve put two and two together and come up with the original source of the domaine’s new vines in Savigny: the ‘négoce‘ from who they acquired the vines was Martenot/Sauvestre – so I asked – are those the old vines from Domaine Maurice Ecard? It seems that they are. This is only a small portion of of the old Ecard estate which they (Sauvestre’s company Béjot) acquired in 2006. Ecard, according to Anthony Hanson’s book, had 7 hectares of 1ers in Savigny – 3 of Serpentières, 2 of Jarrons (Hautes and Aux) and another 2 hectares of Narbantons. Less than 2 of those hectares have come to the home domaine here in Beaune, but they had them for the whole viticultural season in 2020. As one was to hand, I brought a 2005 Serpentières to lunch as a homage 🙂
The Hautes-Jarrons white was a pain to triage – only one of our several bins (each with about 300kg of fruit) had noticeable oïdium – but that was easy to remove as you just throw away the whole bunch! But the rest had a lot of dried/grilled/roast grapes – see the header image – and these took plenty of time to remove. By way of contrast, the Aux Jarrons red, was a pleasure to work with – nicely shaped clusters, modestly sized grapes and the triage table was running at full speed as there was so little to remove – excellent! The Chorey-rouge was much less consistent in ripeness, but again, and certainly compared to previous vintages, was quite an easy triage – some unripe and some roast to remove. 2020 is a vintage, so far, where after multiple tonnes of fruit over 3 days, I have yet to see one bunch of grapes with rot!
Importantly, the home team is getting properly into the stride of its organisation of events – coffee at 10h15 and lunch before 13h30 🙂
One of our team – ex Bernard Loiseau – brought an interesting white Rhône for lunch – just a bit too heavily perfumed/aromatic for me but otherwise delicious. Additionally, we had:
2013 Jomaine, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Les Perrières
A good cork, easily removed.
It must be my age, but I can hardly remember what happened in Puligny in 2013 – other than that they avoided the Côte de Beaune hail. This has a nicely aromatic and fresh nose – it’s a good invitation. Quite concentrated – rich is often a style for the wines from this producer – but the balance here is good. A tasty wine, though even at the modest prices that this domaine charges I’d still only say very good, rather than great value.
Rebuy – Maybe
2005 JC Boisset, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er, Serpentières
JCB had this and Hautes-Jarrons in 2005. It’s not a stretch to think that maybe they got the grapes from Ecard, who sold the domaine in the following year. As you can see, the cork from this wine was just as awful as the one in their Hautes Jarrons – splitting in half then crumbling on extraction!
Oh – but what a great nose – clean young fruit – lots of freshness and a certain graphite-style to the aromatic minerality. Sweeping, sweetly fresh flavours over the palate. Clearly a winner – despite such youth – and a crowd-pleaser too. Much more approachable today – less autere – that the Jarrons I linked above. Excellent!
Rebuy – Yes (despite the crappy corks!)