weekend wines – week 9 2020


I like to keep things varied – in terms of the label – plenty of great acidity in this selection of wines. It’s also nice not to experience corked bottles for the first weekend in a while:

2017 Chanzy Rully Les Cailloux
A very faint toast, but a certain concentration is evident below. Yes, there’s a suggestion of toast in the flavours too, but this wine’s a beauty – mineral, great intensity. Super Rully – a presence that belies the label – bravo! Subscribers will remember how much I loved the 2017 Côte Chalonnais wines!
Rebuy – Yes

2008 Jean Chauvenet, Nuits St.Georges 1er Les Perrières
Deeply coloured – the nose is wild, wide and darkly fruited – but what’s that? Vanilla? I don’t remember that! In the mouth, this reflects the nose with a width of seamless, wonderfully textured flavour. The vanilla is less bothersome in the flavours – and of course, the acidity is super. Beautiful balance, intense, but far from mouth-puckering – a great 2008 – despite the vanilla!
Rebuy – Yes

2017 Philippe Pacalet, Moulin à Vent
Hmm, thats a lovely nose – partly floral, fresh red berry fruit. Fine concentration and super energy – complexity too. It’s a high-toned, energetic flavour that I might describe as airy if it wasn’t so insistent – sustains a great length too. This wine’s a honey – so yum!
Rebuy – Yes

2014 Céline and Frédéric Gueguen, Côteaux Bourguignone – Sacy ‘Cépage Confidentiel’
Oh – this sings and zings – the acidity of 2014 but nothing sharp – more overt freshness than the 2008 Nuits. So mineral and also so saline. Blind it would leave me confused – I think of Chablis – but not quite Chablis – often one of Burgundy’s great bargains!
Rebuy – Yes

2013 des Chézeaux/Berthaut, Gevrey-Chambertin Clos des Chézeaux
Amélie Berthaut’s first vintage in charge of vinification at the family domaine.
Good depth of colour. The nose is sweeping and interesting – it’s an invitation. Sleek and driving flavour – not quite together at the outset but it comes together well with some air – the structure has just a suggestion of rusticity. 2013 remains a vintage that needs to find its place – the wines can be ordinary or great – this one starts a little ordinary but gets better and better – it’s tasty but it’s not yet great though!
Rebuy – Maybe

2016 Domaine de la Pirolette, St.Amour La Poulette
Wow – from start to finish, this is a great wine; so sleek, so silky-textured, so mineral too. This is a wine that vibrates with energy – red berry fruit – it’s also very well matched in style to the acidity of many of the wines here. Pure, intense and very classy – bravo!
Rebuy – Yes

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