It’s always worth checking on a few old friends 😉
2005 des Croix, Bourgogne Pinot Noir
It’s been a while since I checked in on this wine – last time out it was showing in a rather sweet fashion but was clearly still a great young wine. Today a little less overtly sweet – at least with a couple of thousand 2018s having been tasted behind the scenes! The cork broke in half and then the bottom half disintegrated into the bottle – so it was decanted into a jug.
The colour has lost all of its purple highlights. The nose starts with a modest reductive impression – almost an onion-skin impression too to the darker berry fruit – I’m assuming the cork’s to blame though I note that my last bottle was also a little reductive – the nose improves with time but never quite seems 100%. In the mouth this remains excellent – at this age meagre Bourgognes and indeed plenty of village wines start to thin and screech – there’s not even a suggestion of that here. Mouth-filling, wide, silky but still concentrated wine. Not the perfect example, I’m sure, so less easy to say if this will benefit from more patience – but it tastes super, right now, without any overt impression of aromatic development. I won’t rush to drink my remaining half-dozen, or-so, bottles.
Rebuy – Maybe
2018 Clotilde Davenne, Chablis
What a very tasty wine – plump but balanced, deliciously fruity and with a good nose too. I see only one problem; it just doesn’t taste like Chablis today – a nice Chardonnay for sure – still a great value too, also for sure, but no real sense of place. If it wore a Bourgogne Chardonnay label I’d be heaping plenty of praise on it for the price! I’ve some more – so I’ll give those 2 years to see if this wine can recover its family accent.
Rebuy – Not today
2005 Camille Giroud, Gevrey-Chambertin En Champs
Now that’s a great nose! Complex, the first semblance of dried leaves and finely judged maturity – still young but heading in a very fine direction – it’s such an invitation to take a sip! The palate is concentrated and just a little less yielding than the nose – tasty, with beautifully packaged concentration – but still showing a little tightness in the flavours. Overall much to like and good though the texture is, it’s a little behind the two other reds here, but overall the second-best red of this tasting because of the nose of Croix.
Rebuy – Yes
2005 Michel Lafarge, Beaune 1er Les Grèves
A sweeping nose, super depth – it brings the impression of energy and good red fruit – but it still can’t match the Gevrey in this department. In the mouth, this is different to the previous wines – more direct, lots of energy, really a wine with a more driving and mineral personality – frankly, it’s brilliant here – if it were a white you might call it Perrières or Caillerets. A young wine but such an impressive wine.
Rebuy – Yes
So drinking, but still young wines these 2005s…