weekend wines, week 4 of 2020


A homage to my last 3 weeks of tasting, and the weekend’s event – the 77th Saint Vincent – in Gevrey-Chambertin:

2016 Agnes et Didier Dauvissat, Chablis ‘Les Petits Vignerons
A fine Chablis nose that draws you – steely, with a modest seashore and minerality. In some respects, the concentration here reminds a little of 2018s with an extra richness – but the shape of the wine, the line and intensity, the wonderful Chablis complexion of this wine are a little different. So delicious, so engrossing. That’s a great villages…
Rebuy – Yes

2008 Joseph Roty, Gevrey-Chambertin ‘La Brunelle
Their Côteaux Bourguignone aside, Roty needs at least 10 years to get going, and here we are…
This nose starts herby, earthy and a little creamy – the last of the oak – but aeration brings more roundness of red berry fruit to the fore. Supple, wide, fresh but also growing in intensity and a really super, creamy, finishing energy and complexity – that’s a great finish for a great villages – bravo…
Rebuy – Yes

1999 Jean Raphet, Clos de Bèze
This was great, way back in 2003, I would have bought more, but the merchant refused to refund a corked bottle, so that was the last contact that I had with them…
The nose here has much in common with that of the Roty, just a little extra sweetness and richness. Much more richness of texture and depth to the flavour too – it comes to you in concentrated waves of flavour – and with impressive intensity in the middle too. This is the wine that impresses more, though the ‘smaller’ Roty is actually the tastier wine today… still, very good, and possibly still too young…
Rebuy – Maybe

Agree? Disagree? Anything you'd like to add?

There is one response to “weekend wines, week 4 of 2020”

  1. Marko de Morey de la Vosne29th January 2020 at 11:01 amPermalinkReply

    Guess its personal taste but I’ve always really liked the Jean Raphet labels (to say nothing of the wonderful man himself), both ‘pictures’ and word layouts/font. As I type this an empty bottle of JR 2000 Clos de Vougeot GC sits on a shelf above me with its picture of the Raphel Vougeot gateway/section of wall, vineyard behind, and Cote hills in the far distance – one might almost be there ! The label on this particular bottle has the autograph signature of JR himself (which i’d forgotten about !). Bill, your De Beze label picture is personally evocative as showing the back of the Raphet yard property in Morey centre (now disused given the move to the newer facility on the Morey flatlands) – as next door, sharing the same entrance from the street, to the Arlaud premises where I spent nine vendanges – happy days in the main !

    Anyone else have labels which particularly appeal ?

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