I haven’t yet decided (found!) which magnums will be opened on Christmas day, but I’ve found plenty of 1999 reds that I should probably attack. I’ve older whites – 1992/3 Jobards – but will probably attack some 09/10 Ramonets in the single bottle size bracket – and you?

2016 Buisson-Battault, Bourgogne Chardonnay
Nice shape – volume, depth some impression of concentration in the aromas too – ripe but inviting. Ooh, that’s lovely, bright, energetic with proper intensity. Super texture, a slightly saline and layered finishing flavour that’s also touched with a little floral perfume. Great Bourgogne!
Rebuy – Yes

1995 Jean Grivot, Vosne-Romanée Bossières
Pow – a big waft of spiced cherry fruit – that’s a great nose to start with. Vibrant, the acidity was never in question in 1995, more the tannins, and they are still present here, but definitely further towards the background now. The fruit on the palate is an attractive acid-cherry, the middle to finishing flavours have more maturity, a little roast style to the fruit. Nobody is likely to ‘accuse’ this 1995 of elegance, but it’s exciting and tasty wine…
Rebuy – Maybe

1995 Sylvain Cathiard, Vosne-Romanée 1er Malconsorts
Plenty of colour. This is a much deeper but narrower nose than the Grivot – a suggestion of flowers, only, above. Starting narrower but filling, growing wider and wider – the mid-palate is certainly bigger, smoother and more saline. Very long – a graphite style of minerality in this finish. Fine but not other-worldly. On day two, this wine remains a little tight – the cork? – and there’s more than a suggestion of brett. This case has been worth just a little more than the £150 I paid way back when (a case of 12 for you youngsters that have only ever seen 6-packs and 3-packs!) but more for the earlier drunk wines than the later wines which have all suffered a little from brett.
Rebuy – No