week 38 2019 – weekend wines…

Update 23.9.2019(24.9.2019)billn

Ponsot - Julien Brocard

Okay, the black and white ones were Friday night, but that’s practically the weekend!

2016 Chablisienne, Chablis Grenouilles
Honestly, I never used to understand why La Chablisienne would serve this cru last when I was tasting their range – I never thought it as good as the other grand crus – until this 2016 vintage – the 2017 is also great. This wine reinforced my memory, with its silky, concentrated, damn near seamless delivery of great flavour – like a slightly less flamboyant (maybe due to less wood) but still great Corton-Charlemagne. Everyone loved this!
Rebuy – Yes

1995 Dujac, Morey St.Denis
I think the last one of the 6-pack that I bought 20 years ago! The cork came out slowly – without breaking – just! It was an unpleasntly smelly cork, so I didn’t have a lot of hope for the wine – happily I was proved oh-so wrong! Yes there was a little herb on the nose, but only as part of a wonderful complexity of aroma; sous-bous, dried leaves and spice, stems, some sweetness – oh that was so good! The palate has the merest anecdote of the tannins of 1995 – but very mild. Incredibly long for a village wine – we all contemplated this wine for a long time before talking about it. Great villages!
Rebuy – Yes

2018 ‘Les Bertrands,’ Fleurie Coup d’Folie
Hmm – for a low/no sulfur wine this has excellent aromatic purity and such a welcoming fruit. The palate has a cushioned depth of rich, layered flavour – unctuous and rewarding wine – yum!
Rebuy – Yes

Back home from the harvest, I decided on a little grand cru to celebrate:

2017 Julien Brocard, Chablis Les Preuses
I have only a couple of these – unfortunately – this being one of my top dozen, or-so, wines from the vintage. This showed a little less broadness of flavour vs tasting at the domaine in January, but what a wine – even at the €58 (or-so) price at the domaine/shop – frankly a bargain for such greatness. So long, full of melting flavour and holding not just my interest. Bravo wine without a doubt!
Rebuy – Yes

2008 Laurent Ponsot, Griotte-Chambertin
This the first vintage with the ardea ‘corks,’ and I note that the base of this seal seems completely discoloured by the wine, though a little rubbing removes the colour. The wine’s just a little cloudy. The nose starts with a suggestion of brett followed by a fine vibration of rich, dark fruit aroma – quite pure despite the ripeness. In the mouth there’s clearly more depth and cushion to the flavour extract versus the couple of other 2008s tasted during the week – the acidity is not a bit forward – this being a very drinkable if not particularly complex wine. On day two the nose is in full elastoplast mode – not nice – but if you can avoid that, it still drinks in a tasty way. A shame…
Rebuy – No

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