just another wine – or two!


2014 Jean-Claude Bessin, Chablis Valmur
A small but perfectly formed nose – a wine that is clearly far from open – except that it opens wide and with such persistence in the middle and finishing flavours. Pure, crystaline, only modestly complex today but pure, pure, pure – what a beautiful, if seemingly delicate thing today – practically ephemeral – so good!
Rebuy – Yes!

1993 Bonnefond, Ruchottes-Chambertin
A wine that’s been in my possesion for a long time – bought at Berry Bros & Rudd many years ago – I saved it for one of my end-of-vintage encounters with Marko de Morey – and this year I remembered!
In my evening lighting, this is a wine with plenty of colour – and not obviously aged colour at that. The nose is far from massive but what a nose – complex, growing, precise – pure yet with modest earth and dried leaves – it’s a real sniffer’s wine! Beautiful over the palate – so transparent though with a faint extra bump of tannin in the incredibly long finishing flavour.So elegant, so complex – practically timeless – I probably wouldn’t have guessed a 1990s wine despite the aromatic complexity. Really quite something – a wine that dances over the palate and stays long, long, long – bravo! Plenty of tannin solids drop into the glass with the final pour.
Rebuy – Yes!

Agree? Disagree? Anything you'd like to add?

There are 3 responses to “just another wine – or two!”

  1. Mike de Lange28th September 2019 at 9:15 amPermalinkReply

    That Ruchottes (one of my fave vineyards in the world) sure sounds enticing! I have not had the pleasure of tasting a ’93, but hope to one day soon.
    If the Marko has arrived, can we expect to read from him soon?

    • billn28th September 2019 at 5:43 pmPermalinkReply

      Hi Mike – that’s unfair of you to put so much pressure on Mark :)))
      I know he has plenty of photos though!
      The Roumier was a beauty – blind I might not have guessed GC, only because this didn’t have a lot weight – yet it was ethereal – beautiful stuff.

  2. goughie131st October 2019 at 12:11 pmPermalinkReply

    Hi Mike, thanks for thinking of me :). Am humbled at your interest in my craziness :). No pressure here though, nervous cough ! But, I returned to my North West England home only last evening after tiring drives Sunday/Monday. To ‘whet your appetite’ for what might follow (this is inducing pressure on self I guess !) I haven’t worked for Arlaud this year having previously decided it was time for a change – as only one aspect its hard to continually get motivated for 5ha of Roncevie after 9 years ;-). My choice earlier this year, in part from Bill’s coverage, has been Domaine Michel Noellat et Fils, Vosne-Romanee. What a good decision that was & what a fabulous family !!! During the harvest though I had major frustrations at gaining wi-fi connections (I couldn’t until just pre departure) hence my radio silence to date, but I’ve asked Bill if he wants ‘after the event’ diary reports with usual photos. I think he said ‘yes’ although I was concentrating on that Roumier ’93 Ruchottes at the time !!! So, juggling domestic issues, I’ll endeavour to knock some stuff out over the next few days and fire to our main man. Cheers.

  3. Mike de Lange2nd October 2019 at 1:22 pmPermalinkReply

    Hi Marko, not being able to come to Burgundy for a harvest myself, the reports Bill and yourself provide allow me to live vicariously. Also, it provides insights into the vintage character which is useful to me.
    So… Michel Noellat, er? I know of them, but had to look them up for particulars. Very interesting! I look forward to reading all about them.

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