This wine has always been a challenge, but one that I’ve often enjoyed – a challenge in a very 1996 vernacular, but turned up to ’10’ because it is also Corton. This is is easily the best experience of the lot – as it should be, given that wine is now closer to 25 years old!

1996 Hospices de Beaune Corton cuvée Charlotte Dumay* – Prosper Maufoux
Vibrant red fruit, but with a depth, almost a texture, of more mature dry leaves – that’s a big invitation! Of-course it’s fresh and narrow in the mouth, indeed driving. The 1996 acidity is clear but also balanced, and for the first time, I’m beginning to feel some generosity from the very fine texture. An obvious grand cru depth of middle and finishing flavour. This wine was, for the longest time, a test, but today I find it an energising, refreshing joy – I drank a little more than my usual! The best yet from this wine – though now only 2-3 bottles remain from the case…
Rebuy – Yes

*This cuvée a blend of Corton Les Renardes (1.69ha) & Corton Les Bressandes (0.97ha)
Named to remember Charlotte Dumay, who left 100 ouvrées of vines in Aloxe to the Hospices in 1584.