A lovely, diverse, selection this weekend:
2014 Yvon et Laurent Vorcoret, Chablis 1er Fourchaume
Still relatively modest colour. A nose that, after the Italian, is clearly more powerful and sweepingly saline. Supple, wide, complex, saline – mineral – ooh – you know what? This is absolutely great. There’s such a depth of long, lingering flavour. For the cash, this is absolutely eye-catching, taste-budding stuff – bravo – just so good and so quickly the bottle is drained!
Rebuy – Yes
2017 Cuvée Vézelay
Bottled for the St.Vincent – I have a couple more!
Fresh, citrus, more direct fruit than the Chablis and still plenty of minerality – but the Chablis has more. This is what many a St.Romain wants to grow up like – but without the often, heavy-handed oak of the Côte d’Or! Brilliant stuff…
2017 Julien Sunier, Fleurie
Red wax-topped…
Plenty of colour for such a hailed vintage. A nose of both fine width and depth – filled with round, red fruit – such a success for the vintage. Mouth-filling but still with great line. Hardly an overt note of tannin – super energy too. Über-delicious – and it was gone in a flash!
Rebuy – Yes
2005 Vincent et Denis Berthaut, Gevrey-Chambertin Clos des Chézeaux
Hmm – what an invitingly deep colour. The nose still actually has a touch of vanilla from the barrel – but there’s depth of dark-red fruit topped by a little floral accent too. 10 minutes and the volatile oak seems to have fled. Wide, beautiful, concentrated red fruit, a mineral, graphite style in the mid-palate that accents the red fruit. Wide and delicious, only modestly sweet, but who needs more. Great villages. Oh, and so very yum!
Rebuy – Yes