weekend wines – week 35 2017


2013 Alain Geoffroy, Chablis 1er Vau-Ligneau
A modest depth of colour.The nose is fresh but also deep and tropical – certainly a little botrytis here. Mouth-filling, fine, sweet, indeed melting acidity – that’s classic Chablis – the sweet pineapple and slightly oily texture is a little less Chablis. Just fabulously delicious wine, yet, not quite what you might expect from the label. Many 2013s are becoming a little over-developed – but not this one, not yet. Non-standard, but delicious.
Rebuy – Maybe

1998 Thomas-Moillard, Bonnes-Mares
I pulled this out of the case at the same time as their 1996 Corton Clos du Roi – hence, I wasn’t exactly salivating at the prospect of this one – but it’s a winner! A deep colour, plenty of sediment at the bottom of the bottle too. The nose is directly deep, loam and sous-bois with a blood red fruit – almost iron in tandem, becoming slowly sweeter too. The palate is modestly rustic and muscular in the typical slightly extracted TM vernacular, but the mid-palate and finish are pure grand cru – weighted waves of long finishing, absorbing flavour. TM always seemed to better in difficult vintages vs good vintages – the 99s always seemed too extracted by comparison – this 98 (and their 98 Romanée St.Vivant) never showing the astringence of 90% of young burgundy in that vintage. The flavour is deep, a little raisin, and like nose, a lot of bloody-red fruit, not super sweet like most modern vintages but entirely ‘classic.’. Long with a little bitters, long, long. This wine has never been elegant but has always been absorbing, muscular and impressive – I suppose proper Bonnes-Mares!
Rebuy – Yes

2008 L&A Lignier, Morey St.Denis 1er Cuvée Romain Lignier
I’m hazy which climats are in here, I seem to remember Les Faconnières, Les Chenevery and maybe La Riotte too in 2008 – but I’m less sure on the latter one – still I do remember that this was a blend of 50-100 year-old vines.
A deep, fresh, almost sprizy but attractive nose on first pouring. A little more time in the glass brings more composure and even a pretty accent of sweet florals but with no loss of deep Morey fruit. Lots of volume in the mouth, almost plush before the acid takes the lead, but this brings both freshness and energy – width too. There’s still a little tannin and young, mouth-watering flavour, borderline mouth-puckeringly fresh to start but nigh-on perfect with food – take note. Such a baby this wine – but a delicious one. Cleaner and finer than the Bonnes-Mares, with just a little less grunt but super stuff. Really excellent but not for acid-adverse drinkers!
Rebuy – Yes

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