I stopped counting a long time ago – but it seems that last Friday was my birthday – it was also our domaine’s Paulée, to celebrate the end of our 2016 harvest – now how’s that for planning? Actually there are still three tanks to be dug out, but by Monday, or Tuesday, all will be safely put to bed in either tank or barrel.
As Paulées go, this was a very modest affair – indeed, only 8 bottles for 8 people – but there was nothing modest about the wines.
Champagne 1 – a little apple-y and a lot tasty. Champagne 2 was more muscular and intense – tightly wound and fabulous – as it should be. White 1 was Camille Giroud’s 2011 Meursault Charmes, big, bold and impressive – despite the fat, balanced and expressive. Lots of petrol on white 2, and a fabulous open-ended and creamy finish – yum! White 3 was tasty but without reference points – it was basically exactly the same when finished on Saturday night! Red 1 turned out to be Camille Giroud’s 2005 Chapelle-Chambertin – massive aromatics, impressive, tightly wound and complex flavours – bravo – a red version of the Crystal! Red 2 was filigree, complex, fresh, more complex, superb wine – simply exquisite. Red wine 3 was young, a hint diffuse on the nose (though Brillat-Savarin brought out a beautiful beacon of fruit) likewise in the mouth this was young and still showing some oaky structure to go with the impressive density – again the BS shaved off the sharp edges and helped with the focus – easily the youngest of the reds but still number 3 in terms of drinkability today…
And this year’s team: