Dinner in Caves Madeleine yesterday, and generous diners wanted to open the 2004 de Vogüé – so I naturally had to find something to pique their interest too.
Not a bad pair of after-dinner labels…
2004 Comte Georges de Vogüé, Bonnes-Mares
The 2005 of this is magical, but unfortunately this shows in a classic 2004 vernacular. Today that means quite a mushroomy start, then after 10 minutes in the glass a slowly growing pyrazine note. Another taster said peanuts – I don’t get that but it fits to what some other people see in this aroma. The acidity also seems a little spiky to me – but I usually have this impression in the presence of pyrazines, so your mileage may vary. Yet – great mid-palate flavour and a really wonderful, exceptionally long finish here. Still not a wine I’d like a second glass of – even with the wonderful 00001 bottle number!
Rebuy – No
2012 Comte Liger-Belair, Vosne-Romanée Clos du Château
Hmm – clearly a spicy nose – perhaps from Vosne but also from the barrel, almost a modest smokiness too – I’m far from a big oak fan, but this remains alluring. In the mouth, fresh attack of flavour and a structure that’s still supported by plenty of oak – that oak almost seems a little burning in the mid-palate, but then magically melts to leave a lovely, mouth-watering finishing flavour with no bitterness, rather one of real elegance. Lots to find here, and a wine I like to keep going back to, despite being such a baby…
Rebuy – Yes