Let’s open two of the same – a year apart. Well, what else is one to do on a Thursday?
2007 is a vintage that’s rather looked down upon, yet is better than 2000, and all the people who currently like 2000 complain about 2007 – oh well! Then there’s 2006. A very good Côte de Nuits vintage but then people often pooh-pooh the wines of the Côte de Beaune. I guess I’m really putting myself on the line here, I should probably get danger money!
Anyway, Nathalie Tollot tells me that in recent years, the domaine has rather rethought their hierarchy, and now puts Champ-Chevrey ahead of Lavières. Personally, I’ve always found Champ-Chevrey the friendlier of the two, but thought Lavières the more impressive – I don’t know if that should equate to ‘best’ or not though…
2007 Tollot-Beaut, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru Champ-Chevrey
Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose starts with dark oak notes and some complexity of herbs before settling on a wide, slightly darkened-red fruit and something faintly fumé. Lithe, silky and shows direct sweet fruit – this really impresses until you get to the mid-palate and finish, which is dominated by a bitter oak component. Bitter chocolate I like, bitter oak I don’t like. I find this quite hard to drink on day 1 so let’s try another. Day 2 and I’m perplexed – me or the wine? It’s silky, tasty and has no bitterness, neither bitter oak, nor bitter chocolate, or otherwise. Rather tasty.
Rebuy – Yes
2006 Tollot-Beaut, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru Champ-Chevrey
The colour is just a shade lighter than that of the 2007. Here the nose is rounder and a little sweeter – there are no obvious oaky references either. The aromas become ever-more higher toned and I might even be prepared to say pretty, eventually, very pretty! Also silky and direct, just a little more width. Whilst it’s not quite as bad, I have a similar bitterness in the mid-palate and finish. Maybe it’s me! I’m not opening a third bottle – let’s see how these are tomorrow. Day 2, and like the 2007, also silky and no bitterness – but this clearly has more mid-palate and finishing heft and complextiy. Very yum and clearly the more impressive of the two vintages – for today. (If not Thursday!)
Rebuy – Yes
Was it me or the wine? Hard to know – I wasn’t ready to open a ‘known’ third bottle, and nothing else Iate or drank that day seemed odd. But day two, these wre fine. Oh well…