In well-regarded vintages, the wines of Thomas-Moillard were as hard as nails – the 99s are a case in point, where they will need the best part of (at least!) 10 more years before I would consider broaching more than a sample of their wares. Maybe in less auspicious vintages they chose to rotate their recumbent fermenters less, leaving behind just a little of the tannin in their pips and skins – maybe! But here is a decent enough 2000, yet a wine that is certainly built to last.
2000 Thomas-Moillard, Bonnes-Mares
Medium-plus colour. Aromatically this is an instant hit – wild, exciting and with great depth – already after 10 minutes it’s a little more pedestrian, but what an opening! Time restores my interest as there are new aromas of leather and meat, but they are cleanly delivered aromas. The first sip reveals sweet fruit, super intensity and a leading-edge of acidity that is faintly sharp/metallic – this acidity softens quickly – you really wouldn’t notice after a few minutes. There is a grain to the tannin, but it has very little astringency, more of a fresh sensation in the finish. So a concentrated wine that delivers impact and interest, yet seems relatively structured, given the vintage – it is an old-styled meaty wine but still with some style – even these 2000s beg at least 10 more years in the cellar, and given my experience of some 1960s T-Ms, maybe a good deal more than that!
Rebuy – Yes