Doing my rounds of the cellar, and after much case moving, I came across a couple of 6-packs of 2004s, this one and Bouchard’s Volnay cuvée Carnot. Both seemed clean of pyrazine when I last tasted them (years ago) so it would be interesting to see if that was still the case – and if it was, then the perfect duo to take a view on what 04 had the potential to offer. Let’s start with the Jadot…
2004 Jadot (Héritiers), Beaune 1er Clos des Ursules
A rather beautiful medium colour when it catches the sun. The nose starts understatedly unimpressive but I can’t be sure there’s any pyrazine here. Time in the glass and this opens, becoming very pretty indeed, showing a lovely transparent red fruit and yes pyrazine, but at the most, P1. I thought this was a ‘clean’ wine when tasted in its youth, but at this level its honestly not a negative. Middle-weight, with very understated tannin and quite nice texture. High-toned fruit never displays the pyrazine on the nose. Drinkable, indeed quite tasty wine.
Rebuy – Maybe
Whilst most wines from 04 (that are not taint dominated) have a delivery that reminds me of the generally hard and miserly ’94s, this wine seems more like a good ’92 – and I like good ’92s very much. This is a wine where I would eventually pick out the vintage, but also one I’d be quite happy to drink again