bruno clair 2009 marsannay – blanc



The entry price for Bruno’s wines has significantly increased since (say) the early 2000’s. Even his Marsannays have caught this bug – well, all except one – his Marsannay Blanc. Should we take advantage of this (still) slightly unfashionable label?

2009 Bruno Clair, Marsannay (Blanc)
This may be a ‘cheap-er’ wine, but it’s clearly had plenty of oak thrown at it – lots and lots of toasty bread notes that initially smother something sweater at the core of the nose. You need at least 1 hour for the fruit to come through – though it lacks a bit of style. For the vintage this is quite fresh, and that’s despite the wood – eyes closed I could sweat that there’s raspberry in the mid-palate! There’s a decent core of concentration in the mid-palate, though it’s a little unyielding (similar to the manner of a 2005). As an aperitif, I think I’d prefer quite a number of Bourgogne Blancs, so why not bring on the food: I have to say it’s not really improved – there’s an added richness that’s not really to wine’s advantage. Overall, it’s the flavour profile that I’m not enjoying – there’s more than a hint of the savoury-ness of Fixin about this wine. It’s drinkable, but I wouldn’t consider buying any more.
Rebuy – No

Agree? Disagree? Anything you'd like to add?

There are 2 responses to “bruno clair 2009 marsannay – blanc”

  1. Rick Schofield14th April 2013 at 2:35 amPermalinkReply

    However, not all Marsannay Blancs are poor. I’ve had several good ones, pure, and not oaky, although possibly simple. Domaine Collette is one that comes to mind.

    Rick Schofield
    Port Ewen, NY

    • billn14th April 2013 at 9:16 pmPermalinkReply

      You are right Rick – Fougeray de Beauclair’s St.Jacques is a wine I’ve enjoyed a few times. There are many Marsannays though with a particular character that reminds me of the savouryness of Fixin – but more so. I’m really not a fan of that…

  2. Mark Gough14th April 2013 at 8:21 pmPermalinkReply

    Indeed Rick, for me only one super consistent go to one from the best young lady Gevrey vigneronne :- ‘Champs Perdrix’. A 2008 drunk recently was a point superbe.

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