The entry price for Bruno’s wines has significantly increased since (say) the early 2000’s. Even his Marsannays have caught this bug – well, all except one – his Marsannay Blanc. Should we take advantage of this (still) slightly unfashionable label?
2009 Bruno Clair, Marsannay (Blanc)
This may be a ‘cheap-er’ wine, but it’s clearly had plenty of oak thrown at it – lots and lots of toasty bread notes that initially smother something sweater at the core of the nose. You need at least 1 hour for the fruit to come through – though it lacks a bit of style. For the vintage this is quite fresh, and that’s despite the wood – eyes closed I could sweat that there’s raspberry in the mid-palate! There’s a decent core of concentration in the mid-palate, though it’s a little unyielding (similar to the manner of a 2005). As an aperitif, I think I’d prefer quite a number of Bourgogne Blancs, so why not bring on the food: I have to say it’s not really improved – there’s an added richness that’s not really to wine’s advantage. Overall, it’s the flavour profile that I’m not enjoying – there’s more than a hint of the savoury-ness of Fixin about this wine. It’s drinkable, but I wouldn’t consider buying any more.
Rebuy – No