My last ’72 Clos Frantin was 5 or 6 years ago, and it was the Richebourg. On that day it seemed to have everything – certainly more than the accompanying ’88’s – another Richebourg and a Grands-Echézeaux. Unfortunately, that ‘everything’ included TCA! Luckily, no TCA today!
This wine becomes ever-more compelling with open-time, it is fine old Burgundy, but I’d never go further than that; it’s not overtly ‘Vosne-spicy’ and there’s certainly none of the often characteristic aromas of young GE, all of which had me thinking: There’s an oft-quoted ‘truism’ (was it Jacques Seysses?) that (for instance) there are many versions of Echézeaux, but once they are 20+ years old, they are all ‘Echézeaux’. Well, that might possibly be the case from the undisturbed cellars of producers, but frankly it’s an observation that no mere mortal drinker could ever confirm. Good wine though!
1972 Domaine du Clos Frantin
Like most older bottles, the smell of the cork and the smell in the neck is hardly attractive; I leave it with a glass stopper for an hour. Over 40 years young, but the dominant aroma is more a deep strawberry preserve than it is soil and undergrowth – perhaps jam tarts – your nose is pulled into the glass, over, and over. Round, mouth-filling, tasty and with an acidity that only very slowly becomes mouth-watering as you head into the finish. There’s a good intensity of clean flavour in the mid-palate and tannin can certainly be found if you search. There’s only one quibble – a sort of background metallic dimension to the faintly truffly flavour, but it’s hardly enough for concern. A pleasure.
Rebuy – No Chance