It’s a little while since I last delved (publicly) into crémant. Those nice people of Louis Bouillot have nevertheless thought it worth asking my opinion of two new bottles, though I note that one is the same as before – zero dosage, single vineyard – and it has rounded out rather nicely. I have to say that both are very drinkable and I really should delve into crémant a little more – but I see no opportunity before the summer…
Funnily enough, the more modest bottle was the one that had (non-wino) friends more impressed, the second, grander bottle they described as ‘too winey’ – interesting! Personally for chatting and drinking with nuts and canapés I suppose I agree with all my friends – the ‘Perle’ is less demanding of your attention – yet if I had to curl up with a glass/bottle/magnum (delete as appropriate) I would have chosen ‘Les Trois Saints’. Anyone who glances at the price of these bottles will be suitably impressed…
Anyway, to the two bottles before us:
NV Louis Bouillot, Blanc de Blancs Perle d’Ivoire
Plenty of froth here, but dying down it seems not so excessive in the mouth. The aromas are actually quite fine and understated, pretty, clean notes of fruit skins and a fainter depth of brown sugar. In the mouth this is clean and tidy – plenty of mousse but not with a large grain. Very balanced and understated – pretty would fit here too – nice flavours which don’t seem particularly enhanced by additions of sugar. Overall, clean, fresh and nicely incisive. One might say, very drinkable.
2003 Louis Bouillot, Les Grandes Terroirs Les Trois Saints
Blanc de blancs, zero dosage.
Plenty of effervescence on pouring, afterwards there is only the faintest of bead – but the wine never losses its fizz in the mouth. This has quite a pronounced apple/pear note – tarte-tatin – almost, but not quite oxidative this baked apple. Deep and powerfully flavoured – still with those apple pie references. Lovely acidity, flavours are not that long, but that just means you need to take less time between sips!
Bottles supplied for review by Louis Bouillot.