I recognise their headquarters in Savigny, but I can’t recall tasting many wines from de Villamont – they have quite a mix of domaine vines, and like most producers in Burgundy, they are trying to emphasise quality over quantity – so I heard! – this should be a good test, despite the different vintages.
[Edited with day two impression] Overall they showcase their respective vintages: The de Villamont is like fruit preserve, the Ponsot is like the fresh fruit – choose your favourite…
2009 Henri de Villamont, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Feusselottes
Medium-plus colour. The nose starts deep and ripe – there’s an emphasis on licorice, some dried herbs too but there’s also a ripe, dark-red fruit. Understated entry, but there is a welling of intensity that’s coupled to an understated grab from the tannin – decent but not excessive extraction which certainly seems to deliver an interesting extra dimension of textured flavour as you head into the finish. Just a hint of violet perfume in the mid-palate flavours and good length. This reflects its vintage and I would say good winemaking too. Day two and there’s a slightly offputting cola aroma – so drink it all up on day 1!
Rebuy – Yes
2010 Ponsot/Chézeaux, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Charmes
Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose has higher tones than the Feusselottes, more complex but also clearly more ephemeral – rather graceful, particularly as rounds out in the glass. This is more intense and direct – though delivered with less heft and more energy than the last wine. The tannic structure is less evident – again a good showcase for the vintage. Day two and this is just a perfectly ‘together’ wine – very, very impressive.
Rebuy – Yes
I’ll follow their evolution over the next couple of days…