Andrew Jefford has a far better turn of phrase than pissing in the wind methinks…

Not exactly Pommard, but it was the closest thing to hand:

2005 Joseph Voillot, Volnay 1er Brouillards
Medium colour. A kind of candied sweetness mixes with red fruit and eventually a beguilling floral aroma – lovely. This wine has thinned-out, plenty of acidity but intensity too and an impression of extract. Still very drinkable but not the gorgeously cushioned drinkability of its first few months in bottle. This remains a great Brouillards.
Rebuy – Yes